Ferulic acid is a natural compound that belongs to the phytochemical family. It can be found in a variety of plant-based foods, including whole grains, fruits, vegetables, and seeds. This potent antioxidant is a hidden treasure, waiting to be discovered by those seeking a radiant complexion.
One of the key benefits of ferulic acid is its ability to protect the skin from environmental damage. In today's world, our skin is constantly exposed to harmful pollutants and UV rays. These external factors can accelerate the aging process and lead to dull, tired-looking skin. By incorporating ferulic acid into your skincare routine, you can shield your skin from these aggressors and maintain a youthful glow.
Collagen is the holy grail of youthful skin. It's the protein responsible for maintaining the skin's elasticity and firmness. As we age, collagen production naturally declines, leading to the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. This is where ferulic acid comes to the rescue. By stimulating collagen synthesis, it helps to restore the skin's natural plumpness and smooth out any imperfections.
Ferulic acid is not only a superstar on its own but also works synergistically with other antioxidants like vitamin C and E. When combined, these powerful ingredients create a symphony of protection for your skin. They enhance each other's effectiveness, providing a shield against free radicals and promoting a more youthful complexion.
Now that you know the incredible benefits of ferulic acid, it's time to incorporate it into your skincare products. Look out for our next post on disscussing how you can make your own natural Vitamin C serum as effective as top brands in the market but at the fraction of the cost.
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Ingredient |
Concentration |
ETHOXYDIGLYCOL |
61% |
AZELAIC ACID |
15% |
AQUA |
16.5% |
PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL |
4.5% |
DIMETHYL ADIPATE |
3.0% |
Use azelaic acid in the water phase of emulsions with carbomers, cellulose ethers or polysaccharides such as xanthan gum or sclerotium gum.
However, these gels to be stable and clear enough, need a pH from neutral (close to 7) to slight alkaline 7.2-7.5).
For serum and gel based on high content of organic solvents such as ethanol, glycols, the pH value Is not an important parameter as the water content is low.
The solubility of azelaic acid in ethoxydiglycol is 360 g/l. A clear solution will be obtained that will not show crystallisation. Ethoxy-diglycol is mixable with water in any proportion, and also soluble in many polar lipids.
In this formula, the ethoxydiglycol is swiftly absorbed through the skin. This results in quick delivery of azelaic acid to the target location, such as in the hair follicles for the treatment of acne vulgaris.
The preparation is very low viscous, but can effectively be converted into a transparent transdermal gel using hydroxypropylcel-lulose (HPC). For serum preparations 1-2% HPC is required, depending on the desired viscosity. For gel preparations 2-4% is needed. As an alternative for ethoxydiglycol butoxydiglycol may also be used although the solubility of azelaic acid is less, estimated at 15%.
For personal care & cosmetic products both ethoxydiglycol and butoxydiglycol are limited in use because of their extreme penetra-tion power. According to EU Regulation 1223/2009 the maximum allowed concentration ethoxydiglycol in leave-on products is 2,6% while for butoxydiglycol 9,0% is allowed. These concentration limitations are not applicable for medical devices and pharmaceutical products. Taking the risk of stating the obvious, anti-acne preparations, anti-rosacea preparations and products for the treatment of alopecia areata or hair growth products are not covered by EU Regulation 1223/2009.[1]
[1] Azeco Cosmeceuticals Essential Guide, Azeco Cosmeceuticals BV, The Netherlands www.azeco-cosmeceuticals.com
]]>Azelaic acid is a topical medication that is used to treat acne. It works by killing the bacteria that cause acne, reducing inflammation, and decreasing the production of keratin, which can clog pores.(1)
One of the main advantages of using azelaic acid for acne treatment is that it is effective against multiple types of acne, including mild to moderate acne vulgaris, as well as acne caused by hormonal fluctuations. It is also effective against both inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne.(2)
Another advantage of azelaic acid is that it is generally well-tolerated, with few side effects. It is safe to use during pregnancy and while breastfeeding, making it a good choice for women who are pregnant or trying to conceive.(3)
In addition to its acne-fighting properties, azelaic acid has also been shown to have anti-aging and skin-brightening effects, making it a versatile ingredient for skincare. Overall, azelaic acid is a safe and effective treatment option for acne, and it can be a valuable addition to any acne-fighting skincare routine.(4)
1) "Azelaic Acid 15% Gel in the Treatment of Acne Vulgaris: Combined Results of Two Double-blind Clinical Comparisons." Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(99)70410-5/fulltext
2)"Azelaic acid therapy for acne." International Journal of Dermatology. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18489300/
3) "Topical azelaic acid, salicylic acid, nicotinamide, and sulphur for acne." The Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6736846/
4) "Azelaic Acid: Properties and Mode of Action." Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. https://www.karger.com/Article/Abstract/316680
5)"Azelaic Acid: A Review of Its Use in the Treatment of Acne." Skin Therapy Letter. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3047936/
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Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are a group of acids often found in flowering plants and herbs. The most common one is Salicylic Acid, believed to dissolve dead skin cells and, this way, to contribute to the evening and smoothening of the skin surface. They present some similarities to Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs).
Various studies have shown that Salicylic Acid contains anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties [1]. As a member of the aspirin family, Salicylic Acid achieves analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties by truncating AA Cascade. Salicylates are active components in terms of inflammation control, by altering gene expressions. They suppress the expression of inflammatory genes by inhibiting DNA-binding actives.
Salicylic Acid is known to decrease both the frequency and severity of acne eruptions, by reducing acne-related inflammation. Its exfoliating features help to reduce blackheads and whiteheads (also known as comedones).
Salicylic Acid is also used to treat other inflammatory skin conditions such as rosacea and photoaged skin. The topical application of Salicylic Acid (30%) has proven to be effective in terms of the minimisation of aged-related pigmentation spots and in the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles.
However, it is equally important to mention that, if used in too high concentrations and/or too frequently, Salicylic Acid can cause redness, epidermolysis and skin sensitivity [2].
Form | Percentage of salicylic acid | Application frequency |
gel | 0.5–5% | once per day |
lotion | 1–2% | 1 to 3 times per day |
ointment | 3–6% | as needed |
pads | 0.5–5% | 1 to 3 times per day |
soap | 0.5–5% | as needed |
solution | 0.5–2% | 1 to 3 times per day |
Salicylic Acid (BHA) and Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) can be distinguished through their chemical features. Salicylic acid is lipid soluble, whilst the AHAs are water soluble. Due to that, the way these two groups of acids function and the effect they have on the skin vary. Salicylic acid usually impacts mostly the upper epidermis. On the other hand, AHAs are able to penetrate de dermis. This might explain why the prolonged stinging sensation reported by patients who have used AHAs differs from that of the ones using BHA (who normally experience stinging for shorter periods of time) [2].
BHA is lipophilic (i.e., lipid soluble) which, contrarily to AHAs (water soluble) makes it likely to penetrate the sebaceous matter in the follicles. BHA is, thus, a particularly effective exfoliator. A study in which specialists established a comparison between the number of microcomedones registered in biopsies of women using 2% salicylic acid and women using 8% glycolic acid. This was done so as to test BHA’S comedolytic properties (i.e., their capacity to inhibit the formation of comedones). This piece of research allowed the researchers to conclude that the 8% glycolic acid formulation did not contribute to reduce the density / quantity of microcomedones. On the other hand, BHA application resulted in a substantial decrease [2].
Due to its anti-inflammatory action, salicylic acid is also used in acne peels. A clinical trial which took place in 1995 tested a product combining glycolic and salicylic acids. When compared to benzoyl peroxide, it became evident that it statistically reduced more inflammatory acne lesions. It is important to note that one of this study’s key finding was that using a combination of AHAs and BHAs was more effective when tackling acne symptoms than using salicylic acid alone [2].
Daily exfoliation is a crucial step within one’s skincare, as it actively contributes to smoothen and hydrate the skin. Leave-on BHA exfoliants allow a fast removal of dead skin cells while they are gentle to skin. They are also known for helping tackle acne-related symptoms, decrease the incidence of blackheads and reduce enlarged pores. Through BHA exfoliators, skin will gain a softer, brighter and younger appearance, as they optimise hydration and prevent skin ageing.
BHA exfoliators concentrate their action on the upper layer of the skin, where dead skin cells tend to be agglomerated. Their ability to penetrate the skin’s natural oil to exfoliate the pore lining is what makes it particularly effective in terms of pore size reduction [3].
BHA exfoliation products differ from most scrubs. Scrubs usually contain a high percentage coarse ingredientes that may be harsh to skin – they may tear the surfasse of the skin and cause severe long-term damage. This does not happen with BHA exfoliants – they are not scrubs. BHA is neither abrasive nor corrosive. On the contrary, it has soothing features and it is highly anti-inflammatory, which makes it gentler on skin than most scrubs available in the market.
[1] Wu, K.K. (2007) 'Salicylates and their Spectrum of Activity', Anti-Inflammatory & Anti-Allergy Agents in Medicinal Chemistry, 6(4). https://doi.org/10.2174/187152307783220031.
[2] Baumann, L & Keri, J. (2009) 'Acne (Type 1 Sensitive Skin)' In L. Baumann, S. Saghari & E. Weisberg (Eds.) Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice (pp. 121-127). US: McGraw-Hill Companies.
[3] Saxena, V. & Yadav, K. (2020) 'Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Citric Acid, Gluconolactone: Skin Exfoliators in Combination Therapy of Acne Vulgaris' International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management, 3(10), pp. 54-55.
[4] Salvona Technologies (2018)
[5] https://www.healthline.com/health/skin/salicylic-acid-for-acne#how-to-use
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Acne vulgaris is one of the most common skin conditions in the world – so much that it affects millions of people every year. Interestingly, recent epidemiologic studies have examined non-Westernised populations (e.g., Inuit, Okinawan Islanders, Ache hunter-gatherers, and Kitavan Islanders) and concluded that acne is rather rare amongst them. This is likely to suggest that diet and glycaemic load might play a pivotal role in the context of this condition. Since these communities adopted lifestyles with Western influences, cases of acne started to increase [1,2].
One of the studies demonstrated that there is, indeed, a link between diet and acne. This study suggested that the regular, long-term consumption of high glycaemic meals, which raise insulin concentrations, may induce chronic hyperinsulinemia and insulin resistance, increasing the levels of insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1) and decreasing the levels of insulin-like growth factor binding protein 3 (IGFBP-3). This process will foster keratinocyte (skin cells that rise to the surface of the skin) production as well as corneocyte programmed cell death [1,2,3]. Some symptoms that characterise acne, such as androgen-mediated sebum production levels (androgens = hormones that play contribute to the formation of male traits and reproductive activity) as well as inflammation, are also affected by diet. High levels of insulin and IGF-1 may stimulate the synthesis of androgens as well as increased sebum production [3].
In 2007, Smith et al. investigated the effects of a low-glycaemic diet on acne lesion counts in 43 males between the ages of 15 and 25 years. The experimental diet was put into practice throughout a 12-week period and took place in parallel with ongoing blinded skin evaluations. 25% of this diet’s energy sources would come from protein, whilst 45% would be proveninent from carbohydrates with low glycaemic indexes. The skin of the subjects undertaking this diet was compared (a comparison mainly focused on acne) with that of the ones whose diet was more abundant in carbohydrates and in which the food’s glycaemic index was not a factor taken into account. The participants consuming the diet with the controlled (lowest) glycaemic load experienced significant reductions in terms of their acne lesions, and their weight and body mass index tended to decrease as well. Plus, their insulin sensitivity improved. However, none of these effects seemed to be significantly experienced by the group of participants undertaking the carbohydrate-rich diet, whose glycaemic index was not monitored [1].
In the same study, a comparison between the impacts (on skin and, more specifically, on acne) of an experimental low glycaemic diet and those of a conventional, tendentially high glycaemic diet was established. Subjects following the experimental diet (in which the consumption of more fish was one of the main recommendations) exhibited lower acne lesion counts than the group consuming the conventional, high-glycaemic diet, over the 12-week period. The ones undertaking the low-glycaemic diet also experienced weight loss and androgen index decrease [1].
Further studies suggest that the consumption of fish (which contains anti-inflammatory fatty acids such as omega-3) exhibits the potential to have mitigating effects on acne. The consumption of fibres and fatty acids (particularly omega-3 – there seems to be an overall preference for omega-3 over omega-6 in this regard) as well as the removal (or, at least, reduction) of saturated fats from one’s diet are steps consistently recommended by nutrition and dermatology specialists in order to help tackle acne [1].
Throughout the years, the potential link between milk consumption and acne eruptions has been largely discussed. In Nurses Health Study II, questionnaires completed by teenage women who consumed a so-called “high school diet” in 1998, and who were diagnosed by physicians with severe acne in 1999 were analysed by Adebamowo et al. The authors identified the existence of a correlation between the consumption of whole and skimmed milk and acne aggravation. As per Adebamowo et al., this might be due to the hormones and bioactive molecules present in milk [4].
In 2006, Adebamowo et al.’s study reiterated their thesis according to which there is a link between milk consumption and acne by testing 6094 female subjects. These participants were between 9 and 15 years old and reported frequent milk consumption throughout the (long-term) course of the study (1996-1999). In 1999, they responded to questionnaires evaluating the degree of severity of their acne condition. It was, once again, possible to establish a causal relationship between acne development and milk consumption – likely due to the metabolic effects of milk [5].
In the context of another study outlined by the same authors [6], 4273 male subjects responded to dietary questionnaires between 1996 and 1998 as well as questionnaires focusing on teenage acne, in 1999. These reported a positive association between the consumption of skimmed milk and acne incidence. The authors attributed such findings to skimmed milk’s hormonal components and to the fact that these are likely to affect endogenous hormones.
Danby, one of Adebamowo’s co-authors in the above-mentioned studies, acknowledged the rather unnatural nature of humans (the ones in post-weaned stages) consuming the milk provenient of other species. The author has suggested that further qualitative and quantitative research is necessary to ascertain to what extent the steroid hormones in dairy products can influence acne [7]. He also emphasised that Perricone’s [8] dietary recommendations in order to tackle acne were based on the avoidance of dairy products, on the increase of anti-inflammatory food ingredients, and on ensuring the diet’s low glycaemic load.
A considerable number of studies has argued for the inexistence of a solid link between iodine consumption and acne. Nevertheless, one particular study supported that consuming iodine may lead to an aggravation of acne symptoms [9,10].
Adebamowo et al.’s piece of research, in which potential associations between dairy intake and teenage acne were explored, also contained a section focusing on iodine. In this context, the hypothesis formulated by Arbesman [11] was that milk’s iodine content may be a factor which contributes to the hormonal changes experienced by the teenage subjects who responded to the questionnaires and whose acne symptoms were reported as being severe.
Significant levels of iodine have been traced in milk in countries such as Denmark, Norway, Italy, the United Kingdom, and the United States. Variable levels of iodine in milk are likely to occur depending on seasonality, geographic location of production, as well as different milk production methodologies [12,13,14,15,16,17,18].
A piece of research conducted by Danby argues that the consumption of iodine by individuals with acne-prone skin could generate the excretion of this component through the sebaceous glands – a process likely to lead to the irritation of the pilosebaceous unit and, consequently, to acne flare-ups (i.e., acne breakouts) [19].
It tends to be common belief that there is a connection between chocolate intake and acne breakouts. However, in this context, the actual culprit is not chocolate itself but, instead, the sugar present in chocolate. Sugar promotes the process of glycosylation of the proteins in one's skin, which may lead to wrinkle formation and photoaging / premature aging of the skin [20].
The influence of chocolate in acne-related conditions was analysed by Mackie & Mackie [21]. The authors examined the preparation of chocolate for eating and concluded that it mostly relies on the combination of sugar (sucrose) with chocolate liquor and cocoa butter. There may, occasionally, be traces of milk solids and lecithin (in a proportion of around 0.3%), as well as secondary flavouring agents. According to these researchers' analysis, the sugar content of eating chocolate is normally about 50%. Chocolate's high glycaemic index was identified as the most significant element contributing, in this context, to acne aggravation.
[1] Smith RN et al. (2008) The effect of a low glycemic load diet on acne vulgaris and the fatty acid com position of skin surface triglycerides. J Dermatol Sci. 50: 41.
[2] Logan AC. (2007) Dietary fat, fibre, and acne vulgaris. Am Acad Dermatol. 57: 1092.
[3] Wolf R, Matz H & Orion E (2004) Acne and diet. Clin Dermatol. 22: 387.
[4] Adebamowo CA et al. (2005) High school dietary: dairy intake and teenage acne. J AmAcad Dermatol. 52: 207.
[5] Adebamowo CA et al. (2006) Milk consumption and acne in adolescent girls. Dem1atol On/me. 12: 1.
[6] Adebamowo CA et al. (2008) Milk consumption and acne in teenaged boys. J Am Acad Dermatol. January 12 [Epub ahead of print].
[7] Danby FW (2005) Acne and milk, the diet myth, and beyond.] Am Acad Dermatol. 52: 360.
[8] Perricone N (2003) The Acne Prescription: The Perricone Program for Clear and Healthy Skin At Every Age. New York, NY: Harper Collins.
[9] Hitch JM & Greenburg BG (1967) Adolescent acne and dietary iodine. Arch Dematol.1961;84:898.26. Hitch JM. Acneform eruptions induced by drugs and chemicals. JAMA. 200: 879.
[10] Hitch JM (1967). Acneiform eruptions induced by drugs and chemicals. JAMA. 200: 879.
[11] Arbesman H (2005) Dairy and acne- the iodine connection. Am Acad Dematol. 53: 1102.
[12] Rasmussen LB, Larsen EH & Ovesen L (2000) Iodine content in drinking water and other beverages in Denmark. Eur J Cli11 Nmr. 54: 57.
[13] Cirelli ME et al. (2004) Milk represents an important source of iodine in schoolchildren of the Veneta region, Italy.] Endocrinol Invest. 27: 709.
[14] Dahl L et al. (2003) Iodine concentration in Norwegian milk and dairy products. Br J Nutr. 90: 679.
[15] Dahl L et al. (2004) The iodine content of Norwegian foods and diets. Public Health Nutr. 7: 569.
[16] Brants AL et al. (2007) Evaluation of urinary iodine excretion a&a biomarker for intake of milk and dairy products in pregnant women in the Norwegian Mother and Child Cohort Study (MoBa). Eur J Clin Nutr. December 5 [Epub ahead of print].
[17] Lee SM et al. (1994) Iodine in British foods and diets. Br Nutr. 72: 435.
[18] Pearce EN et al. (2004) Sources of dietary iodine: bread, cow's milk, and infant formula in the Boston area.] C/ill Endocrinol Metab. 89: 3421.
[19] Danby FW (2007) Acne and iodine: reply. Am Acad Dermatol. 56: 164.
[20] Vliegenhart JF & Casset F (1998) Novel forms of protein glycosylation [Review]. Curr Opin Struct Biol. 8: 565.
[21] Mackie, BS & Mackie LE (1974) Chocolate and Acne. Australasian Journal of Dermatology. 15(3): 103-109
]]>The process of acnegenesis (acne formation) is rather discrete and is associated with comedogenesis, i.e., the process through which pores become clogged / inflamed (for example, by the formation of blackheads). Acnegenesis can be characterised by the inflammation of the follicular tissues covering the face (and all the remaining body surface) - epithelial tissues - whose functions are varied (protection, secretion, absorption, excretion, filtration, diffusion, and sensory reception). Such inflammation usually leads to the formation of pustules and papules (commonly known as pimples). Before proceeding with further theorisation regarding acne, we recommend the visualisation of Tech Insider video [2] describing what can be found inside a pimple.
The nature of acne lesions varies from case to case. Three main factors that can be identified as acne causes have, however, been determined by researchers. These ought to be carefully considered in conjunction with other elements such as hormonal activity and heredity.
Sebum (i.e., the oily, waxy substance provenient from the sebaceous glands) is continuously secreted to the surface of the skin through hair follicle pores. The excretion of this substance (mainly composed of lipids) happens through the sebaceous glands (located all over the human body) and is controlled by one's hormonal system. Even though the sebaceous glands can be fond in all the areas of our body, they are larger and more abundant in certain body parts, one of them being the face.
During puberty, the sebaceous glands' activity increases substantially. This is due to the androgens (male sex hormones) becoming more numerous and active, which invariably triggers sebum production. As the production of sebum is rather speedy at this stage, the tissues responsible for secretion (epithelium) are not able to keep up with it. This will most likely lead to the hair follicle becoming blocked by sebum, which will subsequently have inflammation as a result. The hormonal system continues to play a vital (if not the main) role in terms of acne throughout adulthood. In the case of men, the gland activity (namely secretion) is influenced by testosterone. For women, the expressive increase of the luteinising hormone (the one responsible for the menstrual cycle) experienced immediately after ovulation triggers the acceleration of sebaceous glands' activity.
Due to the higher sebum secretion right before (2 to 7 days) menstruation, acne breakouts are likely to happen. Women suffering from polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS) usually suffer from severe acne as well. This is because of the excessive presence of androgens in their organism. Acne patients often present larger sebaceous glands than the people who do not suffer from conditions of such nature. Moreover, they comparatively tend to exhibit a higher level of sebum production (a key factor for acnegenesis).
Nevertheless, at this point, there seem to be no traceable differences when comparing acne sufferers' sebum composition to the remaining population's. Specialists have detected, though, the existence of an inverse relation between sebum secretion and linoleic acid concentration (i.e., the lower the presence of linoleic acid, the higher the secretion of sebum). This has led researchers to infer that acne patients present a deficiency of linoleic acid - a fatty acid which is essential to foster the barrier function of the epithelium. Besides weakening this barrier, such deficiency may also result in hyperkeratosis (the thickening of the skin's outer layer). Both these factors will certainly contribute to acne aggravation.
During the process of keratinisation (the migration of keratinocyte cells from the basal layer towards the surface of the skin - as a consequence of these cells' maturation, they become filled with keratin), the maturation of keratinocytes takes place and, subsequently, their exfoliation into the follicle occurs. This is where the formation of comedones (small, flesh-coloured acne spots) begins. In the case of acne sufferers, keratinocytes stick together and usually block the pore (follicle). If the pore is open, a blackhead will be originated (open comedone); if, on the other hand, the pore is closed, a whitehead will be created (closed comedone).
The bacteria mainly responsible for acne manifestations are scientifically called Propionibacterium acnes and they find clogged pores a rather appealing nutritional source (they tend, therefore, to concentrate around blocked pores). The presence of such bacteria is usually recognised by the immune system, which produces a response whose visual translation is often redness, pus, and inflammation (or, in other words, the formation of pimples).
Propionibacterium acnes has unequivocally been identified as the cause of acne. Several studies corroborated that these bacteria are invariably present in teenagers suffering from acne. On the other hand, traces of P. acnes have not been identified in adolescents without acne. This is, however, different in the case of adults, who may carry these bacteria regardless of being acne sufferers or not. Both the accumulation of sebum caused by excessive lipid secretion and hyperkeratosis (i.e., the thickening of the outer layer of the skin) contribute to the increase of the incidence of bacteria on the skin. In spite of the scenario described above, it is important to highlight that bacteria are not deemed by specialists as being the most direct cause of acne breakouts.
The inflammation that takes place in the context of this condition is most likely due to 'free fatty acids that result from the breakdown of triglycerides (a type of blood fat) in the sebum' [1]. Extracellular enzymes, proteases (the enzymes that break down proteins) and hyaluronidases (the enzymes that break down hyaluronic acid) may also contribute to inflammation. The Toll-like receptors (TLRs) have also become an object of interest for researchers focusing on how acne develops. TLRs can be defined as a type of proteins pivotal to the innate immune system. Studies have hypothesised that the acne bacteria can instigate TLR immune response, which will manifest in the form of acne inflammation.
Many variants of the acne condition can be identified. Furthermore, there is a wide set of other dermatologic issues that even though unrelated to acne, can mimic its symptoms and, therefore, lead to potentially inaccurate diagnoses.
a) The fundamental acne lesion
The basic acne lesion is called microcomedone and can be described as an expanded hair follicle full of P. acnes and sebum. As mentioned above, the comedone may assume one out of two possible forms: the open comedone (the one that opens to the surface of the skin, forming a blackhead), and the closed comedone (which stays beneath the skin in the form of a whitehead). Besides these, acne condition has other manifestations such as: papules (pink, tender, non-pustular bumps - they are normally small and inflamed); pustules (pustular lesions which are inflamed and usually small - they are tender and have a red base). These two lesions are superficial. There are two other ones - nodules and cysts - whose location is deeper in the dermis. Cysts can be distinguished from nodules due to the fact that they live deeper in the skin. Nodules present as spherical and rather large, and may often be painful. Cysts are inflamed pustular, usually painful lesions that may frequently cause scarring.
b) Conditions often misdiagnosed as acne
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As Baumann & Keri (2009) [1] suggest, the main focus of most acne treatment protocols is not so much tackling existing, present lesions but, instead, preventing the occurrence of future eruptions / breakouts. As the key aim of these treatments is prevention, it normally takes time (8 weeks at least) for their efficacy to become visible. It is paramount to bear in mind that, for existing acne lesions, only salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and steroids have shown evidence of effectiveness in terms of potential forms of treatment. Although steroids are part of this short list, they are normally advised against as they can have a reverse effect on the skin and lead to steroid acne. There are 5 main principles which have been deemed by specialists as effective in terms of their contribution for acne treatment:
1. Normalising Keratinisation / Exfoliation
Preventing keratinocytes from sticking together is the first step towards successful acne control. Retinoids are particularly effective in this regard, as they help to reduce the internal factors that make the cells become sticky, and to decrease one's transglutaminase (the enzyme whose main function is to bond the keratinocytes' cell membrane proteins). Tretinoin (a type of retinoid) has been highlighted by researchers for its ability to eliminate existing comedones and to actively prevent the formation of new ones. For Baumann & Keri (2009) [1], tretinoin should be used as a preferred therapy for acne, as it adequately and effectively increases the follicle's receptiveness to the penetration of antibiotics. Isotretinoin (an oral retinoid) is recommended especially for the treatment of cystic acne - a condition which tends to show a certain degree of resistance to other therapies. This type of retinoid is unprecedented in terms of normalising keratinisation and reducing sebaceous gland activity. A substantial decrease in the production of sebum has been verified within 2 weeks of the application of this therapy [1].
2. Reducing / Eliminating P. Acnes Bacteria
Antibiotics as well as benzoyl peroxide attack bacteria and, therefore, contribute to decrease the incidence of inflammatory extracellular elements induced by P. Acnes. Clindamycin and erythromycin are considered the two most effective antibiotics in terms of acne treatment - so much that they are the most commonly used. Besides being highly antibacterial [1], they present exponential anti-inflammatory features by lowering the amount of the inflammatory free fatty acids that arise as a result of bacterial digestion of surface lipids [idem]. It is, however, important to take into account that there is a fairly high percentage of P. Acnes strains - carried by around 60% of acne patients - that are resistant to the action of antibiotics. According to Baumann & Kerri (2009), trials undertaken over time have suggested that the topical application of erythromycin is more likely to loose its efficacy, when compared to clindamycin, in patients carrying bacteria that show resistance to antibiotics [1]. The standard therapy for acne when it comes to antibiotics is still very much mainly based on the prescription of oral antibiotics. Nevertheless, newer, lower-dose antibiotics [idem] are arising and starting to be regarded as a sound approach to fight bacterial resistance. These lower doses of antibiotics act fundamentally as anti-inflammatories (not so much as antimicrobials). Benzoyl peroxide generates reactive oxygen species in the follicle. This process will kill bacteria. One of the potential disadvantages of using benzoyl peroxide is that it causes the formation of free radicals, which may instigate an accelerated aging of the skin. It is useful to know that, when benzoyl peroxide and tretinoin are applied simultaneously, there is a high chance that the former will denature and reduce the efficacy of the latter.
Products to consider for this step [1]: topical antibiotics (clindamycin, erythromycin); benzoyl peroxide; azelaic acid; sodium sulfacetamide; sulfur; oral antibiotics; light therapy.
3. Removing the material that clogs the pores
For this step, BHA (salicylic acid) and AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) such as lactic and glycolic acids help to unclog the pores as they loosen the keratinocytes. Baumann & Kerri (2009) suggest that salicylic acid is deemed as more effective in decreasing the amount of comedones, when compared to AHAs. In the case of more severe acne lesions, procedures such as comedone extraction and/or acne surgery may also often be considered.
Products to consider for this step [1]: retinoids; salicylic acid; AHAs (lactic acid and glycolic acid); azelaic acid.
4. Attacking the inflammatory response
Salicylic acid is, once again, an important element to this step, due to its anti-inflammatory features. The use of steroid injections or corticosteroids (especially potent topical corticosteroids) [1] is ill-advised in most cases, due to the fact that they may cause steroid atrophy and/or steroid acne. However, intralesional and oral corticosteroids may be considered for the treatment of the scarring caused by cystic acne. In-office BHA treatments also deserve to be highlighted in this context as they may have a pivotal role in reducing acne inflammation.
5. Decreasing the level of sebum
The main goal of this step is to decrease sebaceous gland activity. The application of topical and oral retinoids may be powerful in this regard. For women, the usage of oral contraceptives has also been indicated as an effective way of promoting hormonal stabilisation, in order to decrease the incidence of sebaceous secretions.
Products to consider for this step [1]: oral contraceptives; retinoids.
Baumann & Keri (2009) have analysed a study conducted by Swinyer in 1980 [1] in which the treatment of acne patients living in normal / humid countries was compared with the one applied to patients living in dry areas. This comparison allowed Swinyer to conclude that skin dryness is an important factor to consider, as it contributes to perpetuate the acne cycle and, thus, to decelerate its treatment. Studies were also conducted so as to examine what the most adequate way to clean acne patients' skin is [idem]. In this context, after 3 months of analysis, an emollient facial wash performed better in terms of acne treatment (namely reducing the incidence of papules and open comedones) than pure soap and benzoyl peroxide wash. Acne sufferers tend to experience an urge to frequently clean their skin. It is, therefore, necessary to ensure that the products used for such cleanse are not abrasive and contain noncomedogenic agents. It is also paramount to hydrate while cleansing through the usage of emollient facial cleansers. This is very much likely to positively impact the acne patient's treatment regimen.
In order to prevent acne, it is important to establish a skincare routine that touches, as much as possible, each of the five steps explained above. Baumann & Kerri (2009) outlined the following regimen, as an example [1]:
Morning
1) Wash the skin with a salicylic acid cleanser (mild - 2%).
2) Apply a topical antibiotic solution / azelaic acid.
3) Apply sunscreen (SPF 45, if possible), with moisturising cream / lotion.
Night
1) Wash the skin with the same salicylic acid product you used in the morning (c.f. step 1).
2) Apply topical retinoid.
Note: there may be slight changes / variations / additions depending on the physician following each patient's case and depending on each person's skin features.
Acne is the result of an intricate interplay of hormonal, hereditary and, in some cases, exogenous (exterior) factors [1]. When a change in the inner area of the hair follicle occurs (i.e., when a set of cells clump together), the usual passage of sebum is inhibited and the follicle becomes blocked. At this point, the acne bacteria (P. Acnes) start to spread and inflammation takes place. Acne treatment can be approached from several perspectives and approaches, and needs to be tailored to each patient's specificities. There is, however, a set of principles which have been scientifically legitimised and deemed as effective in terms of acne treatment. Prevention and / or early treatment are pivotal for the successful treatment of acne.
[1] Baumann, L & Keri, J. (2009) 'Acne (Type 1 Sensitive Skin)' In L. Baumann, S. Saghari & E. Weisberg (Eds.) Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice (pp. 121-127). US: McGraw-Hill Companies.
[2] Tech Insider (2018) What's Inside a Pimple?. [Video]. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDBzqZp7slM&t=1s&ab_channel=TechInsider
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Fatty Acids: Palmitic Acid 3%, Stearic Acid 3%, Oleic Acid 7%, Linoleic Acid 3%, Punicic Acid 80%, Gondoic Acid 1% |
Phytosterols 5.000 mg/kg |
17-α-Estradiol 3.000 mg/kg |
Estrone 17 mg/kg |
Phospholipids 3% |
Vitamin E 10.000 mg/kg (mainly γ-tocopherol) |
Pomegranate seed oil has a unique nutritional profile that makes it particularly suitable for cosmetic applications. This oil is mainly characterised by its high content of punicic acid (an omega-5 long chain polyunsaturated fatty acid [1]). It is also worth to highlight its high content of phytosterols as well as tocopherols.
Pomegranate (Punica granatum) is a small tree often cultivated both for its fruit and as a garden plant. The pomegranate tree was firstly originated in Iran, from where it subsequently spread to the Mediterranean, Southeast Asia, America, and Australia [2].
Pomegranate has been an overall cherished fruit over the centuries, by many different cultures. The Babylonian civilisation, for instance, believed in pomegranate's ressurecting powers. For the Persians, on the other hand, pomegranate was especially relevant during war times as a symbol of invincibility. The Chinese often tend to associate pomegranate with immortality and longevity [1]. The most common cultural constructions around pomegranate, are, though, the ones in which this fruit is regarded as a symbol of fertility and wealth (mainly due to the seeds).
The different parts of pomegranate fruit have different components relevant to one's health, such as vitamins, minerals, polyphenols, and others. This is most likely why pomegranate has, throughout the centuries, been a cherished fruit amongst multiple civilisations [1].
Studies undertaken in both human and animal models have corroborated the antioxidant, anti-invasive and pro-apoptotic properties of punica granatum [3] and its important role when preventing lipid peroxidation and neutrophil activation (this is, above all, a feature of Pomegranate Seed Oil). This makes this fruit's oil particularly attractive for cosmetic applications (more information about this topic in the following section).
Several pieces of research have also highlighted the important role of pomegranate in the context of the suppression of cancer cells' reproduction [1,3]. Pomegranate Seed Oil has deserved considerable emphasis amongst specialists due to its antitumour properties, especially in the context of prostate and breast cancers (cancers with hormonal origin, which Pomegranate Seed Oil can help to prevent), as well as colon cancers (as it helps decreasing the accumulation of hepatic triglycerides and it promotes the regeneration of epidermal tissue) [3].
Pomegranate may also make a difference when it comes to liver disease, diabetes, cardiovascular issues, and renal conditions, mainly due to its protective, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects [3].
The following image, retrieved from a piece of research conducted by Boroushaki et al. (2015) [3], summarises the additional multiple pharmacological uses of Pomegranate Seed Oil.
In the context of this article, and as a way of establishing a bridge to the next section (which will focus on the benefits of Pomegranate Seed Oil to skin), it seems relevant to emphasise the cosmetic pharmacological properties listed by the researchers.
Pomegranate seeds contain a high percentage of oil (approximately 20%) [2]. The triglyceride composition of this oil (mainly punicic acid - a conjugated linolenic acid characteristic from pomegranate seeds, [5]), combined with the presence of two estrogen hormones (17α-estradiol and estrone) and a high concentration of vitamin E, makes it unprecedented, unique, and valuable – so much that it cannot be suitably replaced by any other vegetable oil [2].
Studies focusing on Pomegranate Seed Oil undertaken in human skin [6] have emphasised its capability of increasing keratinocyte (the primary type of cell found in the epidermis) proliferation and, as a consequence, of mildly contributing for the thickening of the epidermis [3,6]. This is one of the reasons why Punica Granatum Seed Oil is much indicated for mature skin and denotes a considerable anti-aging potential and is worth considering when tackling wrinkles.
Other pieces of research have also examined Pomegranate Seed Oil's antitumour properties [3,4] as well as both its powerful action in terms of injured skin regeneration and reduction of the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation [3]. Due to this, the application of Pomegranate Seed Oil to dry skin is fully appropriate.
Experts who have analysed Pomegranate Oil have also consistently highlighted its anti-inflammatory and antioxidative features, which makes it particularly suitable for stressed and / or allergy-prone skin.
Pomegranate Seed Oil is, undoubtedly, a valuable addition to the skincare ritual of those with mature, dry, allergy-prone, and stressed skin. Its high concentration of punicic acid highly contributes to the regeneration of the dermis (hence its strong antiaging potential) and to the prevention of wrinkles. Punica Granatum Seed Oil is also antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, which explains its suitability to allergy-prone and stressed skin. Its pivotal role in terms of reducing potential damages caused by sun overexposure cannot be ignored either. Pomegranate Seed Oil is a multi-faceted oil which will certainly do wonders for your skin.
[1] Melo, I. L. P. D, Carvalho, E. B. T. D & Mancini-Filho, J. (2014) Pomegranate Seed Oil (Punica Granatum L.): A Source of Punicic Acid (Conjugated α-Linoleic Acid). Journal of Human Nutrition & Food Science, 2(1): 1024
[2] Glavac, N. K. & Janes, D. (2021) Modern Cosmetics - Ingredients of Natural Origin: A Scientific View, Volume 1 [Encyclopedia of natural cosmetic ingredients]
[3] Boroushaki, M. T. et al. (2015) Pomegranate Seed Oil: A Comprehensive Review On Its Therapeutic Effects. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 7(2): 1000-1013
[4] Thotambailu, A. et al. (2021) Role of Pomegranate in the Management of Cancer. Intechopen. DOI: 10.5772/intechopen.97188
[5] Fernandes, L. et al. (2015) Fatty acid, vitamin E and sterols composition of seed oils from nine different pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) cultivars grown in Spain. Journal of Food Composition and Analysis, 39: 13-22. DOI: 10.1016/j.jfca.2014.11.006
[6] Dayan, N. (2008) Skin Aging Handbook: An Integrated Approach to Biochemistry and Product Development. New York, USA: William Andrew Inc.
]]> Scientific name: Sambucus Nigra
Family: Caprifoliaceae
Other names: Elderberry, Elder, Black Elder, Bore Tree
Plant Part: Seed
INCI: Sambucus Nigra Oil
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Fatty Acids: Palmitic Acid 13%, Stearic Acid 2%, Oleic Acid 13%, Linolenic Acid 37%, α-Linoleic Acid 31% |
Phytosterols 10,000 to 30,000 mg/kg |
Vitamin E 3.12 mg/kg (mainly γ-tocopherol) |
As shown above, Elderberry Seed Oil is particularly rich in fatty acids. The most prominent ones are inarguably, linoleic, oleic and linolenic acids (84-88.6%) [1]. Its high concentration of these fatty acids makes Elderberry Seed Oil highly regenerative and anti-inflammatory. On the other hand, the presence of Vitamin E gives it a nutritional profile which is particularly suitable and beneficial for skin applications. Finally, the phytosterols foster its highly antioxidative potential.
Elderberry shrubs or trees are originally from Europe and northern Africa (namely Ghana, Rwanda, Angola and Kenya), and have spread over time to Asia and North America [2]. In Spring, it is common for elderberry trees to bear clusters of delicate white or cream-coloured flowers [2]. The elderberry fruit typically comes in small black or dark-violet berry bunches (yellow and white berries have also been identified, but are rather rare).
Both the flowers and the berries of sambucus have been highlighted by specialists for their considerable potential when it comes to boosting the immune system. This is due to its high content of antioxidants as well as vitamins [2]. According to some researchers, in some of the areas where elderberry trees are more easily found (especially Africa), their berries and flowers are often used for medicinal purposes - namely to help relieve some symptoms of cold and influenza [2,3]. Besides, elderberry has also been praised by many specialists for its anti-inflammatory and anti-stress potential [2].
When elderberry is used as a health ally, it usually comes in the form of a food supplement (either through the direct consumption of the berries or by juicing them). In this context, it is, though, important to acknowledge the precautions one must take before ingesting any part of the elderberry plant. Firstly, one should never eat the berries uncooked, as there have been adverse reactions (such as vomiting and diarrohea) shown by people who did so. Moreover, it is pivotal that one is aware that American or European elderberry tend to be safer (as they are the least toxic). Finally, the ingestion of elderberry is not indicated for people below 18 years old, as well as pregnant or lactating women, as there is no sufficient evidence of its safeness for these specific groups [3].
Elderberry Seed Oil is mainly characterised by its yellowish / greenish colour and its very particular tart odour [4]. It is quite consensual amongst specialists that the elderberry part which is most suitable for cosmetic uses is the seed. Elderberry seeds contain approximatelly 10% of oil [1,4]. Even though Elderberry Oil has only recently started to be examined by Western skincare specialists (which is why scientific research regarding this oil is still rather scarce), it tends to be regarded by many as a valuable (even though rare) cosmetic oil.
Studies undertaken both in vitro and in vivo [1], combined with thorough, exhaustive analyses of the composition of elderberry seeds, have corroborated its highly antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties - which are mostly due to the abundance of phytosterols. This makes Sambucus Nigra Oil particularly suitable for irritated, inflamed, acne-prone and / or allergy-prone skin [4].
The same studies [1] also highlighted elderberry seeds' expressive content of fatty acids. The presence of linolenic, oleic and α-linoleic acids fosters Elderberry Seed Oil's suitability for those with very dry skin.
Tip: Try to combine elderberry oil with coffee oil and shea or mango butter. This will most likely reduce skin flakiness and ease potential feelings of tension and / or dryness [4]. |
As per suggested by many studies, the cold pressing method for extracting elderberry oil is the one that helps it retain its nutritional qualities and properties more effectively. That is mainly due to the fact that this extration procedure does not involve chemicals of any sort, and, unlike other extration methods, it does not involve extreme heat (typically, temperature does not exceed 50º) [6].
Studies consistently show that, because of its chemical absence as well as the low temperature that characterises the cold pressing, the oils which are extracted through this procedure tend to retain their main nutrients (with particular emphasis on antioxidants) – a feature which is extremely important when dealing with oils for cosmetic applications [ibid.].
Elderberry Seed Oil is certainly a powerful addition to one's skincare - particularly to the ones with dry skin, acne-prone and allergy-prone skin. It is a highly regenerative, anti-inflammatory and antioxidative oil whose benefits have recently started to be recognised and fully acknowledged by skincare specialists.
[1] Fazio, A. et al. (2013) Comparative analyses of seeds of wild fruits of Rubus and Sambucus species from Southern Italy: Fatty acid composition of the oil, total phenolic content, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of the methanolic extracts. Food Chemistry, 140, pp. 817-824
[2] Mairura, F. (2007) Sambucus Nigra L. Netherlands: Prota Network Office Europe
[3] Arakelyan, H. & Arakelyan, S. (2021). Elderberry (Sambucus): Health Benefits and Side Effects. Clinical Phyto-Pharmacodynamics
[4] Glavac, N. K. & Janes, D. (2021) Modern Cosmetics - Ingredients of Natural Origin: A Scientific View, Volume 1 [Encyclopedia of natural cosmetic ingredients]
[5] Ribeiro, A., Estevinho, B.N. & Rocha, F. (2020) Microencapsulation of polyphenols - The specific case of the microencapsulation of Sambucus Nigra L. extracts - A review. Trends in Food Science & Technology, 105, pp. 454-467
[6] Cheikhyoussef, A. et al. (2020) Cold pressed berry seed oils in Cold Pressed Oils, pp. 277-287
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Scientific name: Coffea Arabica
Family: Rubiaceae (madder family)
Other names: Arabica Coffee, Mountain Coffee
Plant Part: Seed
INCI: Coffea Arabica Seed Oil
Phytosterols 20,000 to 50,000mg/kg, Phospholipids 1000 to 5000 mg/kg
Terpenoids 9000 to 21,000 mg/kg, Vitamin E 120mg/kg ( mainly β-tocopherol)
The unique feature of Coffee Seed Oil when compared with other carrier oils, is its high level of unsaponifiable matter. Which is around 10 to 15%. Green Coffee Seed oil has high concentration of essential fatty acids and Phytosterols. It can be as high as 5% and phospholids as high as 0.5%. High concentration of essential fatty acid helps with problematic skin and cell formation. Its terpenoids - represented by compounds (castor and kahweol) are also worth highlighting [1].
When producing antiaging skincare products is important to ensure that products can reduce the oxidative damage of free radicals. [1]. Oxidative damage weakens elastin and collagen production and can lead to the overproduction of melanosomes [2].
Green coffee oil has recently become a quite famous natural antiaging cosmetic product. Scientific in vitro studies demonstrated that coffee oil can stimulate collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans synthesis [3]. As a consequence of aging, our natural natural collagen and elastin production tends to decrease. Therefore, its stimulation is essential, as it helps reducing the incidence of fine lines and wrinkles.
Recent studies demonstrated that cafestol and kahweol (one of coffee's diterpenoids and a component of Coffee Oil) have anti-inflammatory properties and anti-cancerous properties [4]. It is also important to note that these compounds are heat sensitive and, therefore, cold oil extraction methods might be preferable.
Several studies proved that Coffee Oil is a suitable ingredient for cosmetic formulations, especially for the purpose of improving UVB sun protection. The SPF values of this oil vary between 2.0– 5.0. However, the unsaponifiable matter extracted from Green Coffee Oil has SPF levels 10 times higher than the ones occurring in the oil [5].
Over exposure to sun radiation can lead to premature aging and age spots. Therefore, adequate protection is crucial to prevent the premature formation of fine lines and wrinkles. Green Coffee Seed Oil is one of the most powerful options to consider in these regards.
Cold pressing seed oils (i.e. pressing them at low temperatures - < 50°C) ensures the retention of their purity and chemical composition [6].
With regards to Coffee Oil, the cold pressing method yields and preserves remarkable amounts of antioxidants in comparison with other extraction methods. Due to its high content of unsaponifiable matter (around 19%), green coffee oil is not edible. It is, though, becoming quite popular amongst the medical and cosmetic fields [7].
The comedogenic rating refers to the likelihood of an oil to clog the pores and to cause skin breakouts. Comedogenic rating rates oils on scale of 0 to 5.
Zero indicates it is very unlikely that the application of the oil will cause skin breakouts or clog the pores. Five on the other hand, indicates that it is very likely that these reactions will occur. Oils that have a high concentration of Linoleic Acid normally have low comedogenic ratings.
Green coffee oil is rated 2 out of 5 and it can be suitable to acne prone skin and damaged wrinkled skin.
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that has been used in anti-aging cosmetics for many years. Nevertheless, Vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin that does not occur in oils.
Oil soluble Vitamin C derivatives, such as Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate or Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, can be added into cosmetic formulation but then must be included in the product's ingredient list.
In Brazil, Coffee oil has been regarded as a rather popular treatment for cellulite for many years. This trend recently started to spread all over the world. As far as our research could go, there are no studies that confirm Green Coffee Oil or Coffee Oil's effectiveness as a treatment for cellulite.
There is also a strong belief that applying coffee oil around the eyes can help with puffy eyes. Many pieces of research suggest that caffeine is supposed to increase microcirculation, accelerate the elimination of fluid from the tissue, and stimulate lipolysis. However there is no solid scientific evidence that this process actually occurs after the topical application of Green Coffee Oil [8].
Coffea arabica bean contains caffeine (0.6 to 1.7%). It is important to note that caffeine is a water soluble ingredient and, thus, it does not occur naturally in oil. It is possible that small amounts of caffeine remain in the oil during extraction process. Such amounts would be minimal and they would virtually have no impact the oil's topical application.
Photo by Content Pixie on Unsplash
Scientific research dedicated to analysing the safety of of natural ingredients' application to cosmetic products is quite scarce.
Several in vitro studies which examined the human keratinocytes of Green Coffee Oil showed no cytotoxicity effects up to 100 μg mL− 1 [9].
These findings were supported by another which showed no cytotoxicity of Coffee Oil against liver cells (through in vitro tests), even at high concentrations [10].
Another study corroborated the safety and efficacy of Green Coffee Oil for topical application. Cosmetic formulas with Coffee Oil concentrations between 2.5% and 15% were tested on human volunteers. The results showed a slight decrease of water loss when the formulation was applied. None of the volunteers displayed any reaction after using an occlusive patch [11].
Further research showed the fast wound healing properties of Green Coffee Oil, when topically applied, and increase in collagen density [12].
The cosmetic products with Propolis and Green Coffee Seed Oil displayed anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antiaging properties. In the same time it has been shown to reduce the roughness of the skin, improves moisture levels of the skin and help with stretch marks [13].
If you are looking for the best natural anti-aging facial oil, Green Coffee Oil meets all the necessary requirements. Studies have proven its antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and anticancer features. Moreover, scientific research also highlights its important role when it comes to boosting collagen production, fostering skin's natural elasticity and preventing wrinkles. It also helps to protect the skin from harmful solar radiation, which is a crucial part of one's skincare routine.
[1] Palmer, D. M. & Kitchin, J. S. (2010) Oxidative damage, skin aging, antioxidants and a novel antioxidant rating system. J Drugs Dermatol. 9: 11-15.
[2] Palmer D. M. & Kitchin J. S. (2010) A Double-blind, randomized, controlled clinical trial evaluating the efficacy and tolerance of a novel phenolic antioxidant skin care system containing Coffea arabica and concentrated fruit and vegetable extracts J Drugs Dermatol 9: 1480-1487.
[3] Velásquez, M. D. C. P. et al. (2009)Effect of green Coffea arabica L. seed oil on extracellular matrix components and water-channel expression in in vitro and ex vivo human skin models J Cosmetic Derm 8: 56-62.
[4] Renehan, A. G., Booth, C. & Potten, C. S. (2001) What is apoptosis, and why is it important? BMJ. 322(7301): 1536-1538. doi: 10.1136/bmj.322.7301.1536.
[5] Wagemaker, T. A. L. et al. (2016) Unsaponifiable matter from oil of green coffee beans: Cosmetic properties and safety evaluation. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy. 42(10):1695–1699. doi:10.3109/03639045.2016.1165692.
[6] Bhatol, K. (2013) Castor oil obtained by cold press method. Banaskantha, Gujarat: Shri Bhgwati Oil Mill (SBOM) Manufacturer’s Info.
[7] Rincon M. A. D., Maciel F. R. & Maciel M. R. W. (2011) Fractionation of green coffee oil by molecular distillation: Modeling and simulation,Journal of Materials Science and Engineering. 1(2): 264–272.
[8] Glavac, N. K. & Janes, D. (2021) Modern Cosmetics - Ingredients of Natural Origin: A Scientific View, Volume1[Encyclopedia of natural cosmetic ingredients]
[9] Wagemaker T. A. L. et al. (2015) Integrated approach in the assessment of skin compatibility of cosmetic formulations with green coffee oil, International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 37(5):506–510. doi:10.1111/ics.12225.
[10] Chiari B. G. et al. (2014) Synergistic effect of green coffee oil and synthetic sunscreen for health care application. Industrial Crops and Products. 52: 389–393.
[11] Wagemaker T. A. L. et al. (2015). Integrated approach in the assessment of skin compatibility of cosmetic formulations with green coffee oil. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 37(5):506–510.doi:10.1111/ics.12225.
[12] Lania B.G. et al. (2017)Topical use and systemic action of green and roasted coffee oils and ground oils in a cutaneous incision model in rats (Rattus norvegicus albinus) PLoS One.12(12):e0188779/1–e0188779/17doi:10.1372/ journalpone.0188779.
[13] Ribeiro M. C. M., Paulino, N. & Marques dos Santos, A. (2014) Cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations based on coffee oil and propolis, Brazilian Patent, PI, BR 102012019950 A2 20140909.
Any cosmetic product’s ingredient is vital. From analysing a product’s ingredients list, you will certainly be able to find answers for these questions:
At this point, it is also important to mention that ingredient lists have their own limitations or, in other words, information one cannot infer from analysing them. For instance, these lists do not normally include information regarding ingredients’ sources. Moreover, they can neither fully predict how your skin will react to the products nor foretell their exact effectiveness (as each and every skin is different).
Even so, it is still undoubtedly useful to know the basic principles one should consider when reading cosmetic products’ ingredient lists. These will be explored in this series of posts. First and foremost:
INCI nomenclature should be used. INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients – a comprehensive list of of standardised names for cosmetic ingredients created by the Personal Care Products Council.
Here is an example of a cosmetic product’s ingredient list elaborated according to INCI:
Coconut Alkanes, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate 20.0%, Ethyl Linoleate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Squalane
(INCI Decoder, 2021)
For more information about INCI, visit:
In order to translate INCI ingredients to plain English, visit:
This was the first “What's in my Face Cream? - Skincare Ingredients” series post. Stay tuned as there are more to come with useful tips on how to find out what your current cosmetic products consist of and whether they are the most suitable ones for your skin!
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Results:
This is a test that will certainly make a difference in your daily skincare ritual. If you have not done it before, give it a try!
]]>Pomegranate oil contains an expressive triglyceride (punicic acid) percentage which, combined with the presence of estrogen hormones (17α-estradiol and estrone) and a high concentration of vitamin E, makes it unprecedented.
Vitamin C is absolutely essential for the synthesis of collagen. It is an essential co-factor for the two enzymes required for collagen synthesis: prolyl hydroxylase (that stabilises the collagen molecule) and lysyl hydroxylase (that gives structural strength cross-linking). Recent research has further demonstrated that vitamin C acts directly on DNA to increase the transcription rate and to stabilise the procollagen messenger RNA.
]]>Cold-pressed the green coffee oil contains high levels of vitamin E, phytosterols, antioxidants and essential fatty acids, offering nourishment and protection.Some studies suggest that it promotes the production of elastin and collagen, increasing the flexibility and firmness of the skin.
Elderberry oil’s high concentration of linoleic and α-linoleic acids, combined with the predominance of phytosterols, make it uniquely regenerative, anti-inflammatory and antioxidative.
That is the reason why this oil is regarded by many specialists as particularly suitable for dry, irritated, inflamed, acne-prone and / or allergy-prone skin.
Pomegranate oil contains an expressive triglyceride (punicic acid) percentage which, combined with the presence of estrogen hormones (17α-estradiol and estrone) and a high concentration of vitamin E, makes it unprecedented.
This oil is anti-inflammatory, antioxidative, antitumour and photoprotective. It contributes to injured skin regeneration as well as to the reparation of the dermis. Besides, it helps to decrease the damages caused by sun exposure. Pomegranate oil is particularly appropriate for those with mature, dry, stressed, and / or allergy-prone skin.
Vitamin C is one of the most powerful antioxidants that helps to fight the free
radicals and therefore fights the aging process. Vitamin C protects the skin from oxidative stress by sequentially donating electrons that neutralise the free radicals. The oxidised forms of Vitamin C are relatively non-reactive. However, exposure to pollution, smoking, or even exposure to the sunlight, destroy vitamin C in our bodies, which can lead to premature aging.
Vitamin C is absolutely essential for the synthesis of collagen. It is an essential co-factor for the two enzymes required for collagen synthesis: prolyl hydroxylase (that stabilises the collagen molecule) and lysyl hydroxylase (that gives structural strength cross-linking). Recent research has further demonstrated that vitamin C acts directly on DNA to increase the transcription rate and to stabilise the procollagen messenger RNA, thus regulating and maintaining the intercellular amount of collagen. There are many cosmetic products in the market with many different forms of Vitamin C - some work better than others.
The stability of L-Ascorbic Acid mostly depends on pH. As it only tolerates low levels of pH (maximum 3.5), it can become quite harsh to skin. That is why other versions (stable at higher pH levels) have been created. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Ascorbyl Glucoside are two of the many potential alternatives.
A product’s concentration of Ascorbic Acid will impact one’s skin. Any product with more than 20% of this component is likely to cause skin irritation. For normal skin, the ideal concentration range is between 10% and 15%. Water is also a factor that impacts the quality of Ascorbic Acid. Therefore, when looking for a Vitamin-C-related suitable product to include in your skincare, you might want to opt for one which does not have water as one of its first ingredients (check label), as an unbalanced proportion of water may lead the Ascorbic Acid to oxide.
The importance of three main steps in your daily skin care routine should includ – cleaning, treating, and protecting – which, if practiced twice a day (morning + evening), will positively impact your skin health and quality.
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In his book Age Fix, Anthony Youn stresses the importance of three main steps – cleaning, treating, and protecting – which, if practiced twice a day (morning + evening), will positively impact your skin health and quality.
An effective skincare routine, supported by the right products, typically includes the following steps:
Start by washing your face with a gentle cleanser. Dr Dendy Engelman suggests the usage of a cleanser which helps the skin keep its natural oils and, thus, does not dehydrate it. It is important to consider one’s skin type when choosing cleansing products. It is also beneficial to include exfoliation a few times a week in the evening.
You will next treat your skin with the appropriate serum. In the morning, you might want to opt for Vitamin C as its antioxidant features will help to protect the skin from free radicals and sun damage.
Retinoid serums are more suitable for evening time, due to sun sensitivity. Applying serum to skin before sleep is a particularly vital step of the routine.
In the morning, moisturiser and sunscreen are the keywords. Sunscreen will contribute to the preservation of collagen and prevent pigmentation. In the evening, apply a night cream which stimulates the production of collagen (no need for sunscreen here). This will enhance your skin’s elasticity and tackle aging issues.
Remember: there is no such thing as being ‘too young’ to start your skincare daily ritual. Start as soon as possible!
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