Ethylhexyl Cocoate

1. What It Is & How It’s Used in Cosmetics

INCI: Ethylhexyl Cocoate is a fatty ester formed from 2-ethylhexanol and coconut fatty acids. It serves as a lightweight, non-greasy emollient that improves spreadability and imparts a silky skin feel. Usage levels span widely, from as low as 0.01% up to 41% in formulations, depending on sensory goals and formulation type. The CIR Expert Panel concluded it is safe for use when formulated to be non-irritating and under typical use levels [2][4]. It is not flagged as problematic by EWG’s Skin Deep database [5].

2. Technical Details & Characteristics

Appearance: Clear to pale yellow liquid
Function: Emollient, skin-conditioning agent, slip enhancer
Form Compatibility: Oil-soluble; blends easily in oil phases of emulsions and anhydrous systems
Typical Use Levels: 1–30%, depending on texture and form type
Safety: CIR-approved; broad use is acceptable when not irritating [2]
Sensory Attributes: Smooth silicones-like feel with lower viscosity; improves sensory experience in lotions, serums, and sunscreens

3. How to Formulate (Independent Formulator Guidance)

Usage Role: Use as a primary or secondary emollient to enhance slide and finish
Phase: Add to oil phase; easily incorporated at room temperature or with low heating (≤60 °C)
pH Stability: Oil-phase ingredient—unaffected by pH; focus pH adjustments on water phase components
Compatibility: Smoothly blends with oils, esters, silicones, sunscreen filters, emollient blends, and co-emulsifiers
Stability Notes: Standard stability testing—heat/cool cycling, centrifugation, and room temp storage—recommended to ensure no phase separation

4. Ready-to-Use Example Formulas (100 g batches)

A. Lightweight Serum-Oil (Silky Feel)

Ingredient	%	g	Function
Ethylhexyl Cocoate	60.0	60.0	Main emollient, silky texture
Squalane	25.0	25.0	Skin conditioning agent
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride	14.0	14.0	Balancing emollient
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)	1.0	1.0	Antioxidant

Method: Mix ingredients at room temperature until uniform. Package in airless droppers.

B. Daily Moisturizing Lotion (O/W Emulsion)

Phase	Ingredient	%	g	Function
Water	Deionized Water	60.0	60.0	Solvent
	Glycerin	4.0	4.0	Humectant
Oil	Ethylhexyl Cocoate	8.0	8.0	Emollient
	Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride	10.0	10.0	Emollient base
	Cetearyl Alcohol	2.0	2.0	Thickener & co-emulsifier
	Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate	4.0	4.0	Primary emulsifier
Cool-down	Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin	1.0	1.0	Preservative
	Citric Acid Solution	q.s.	q.s.	pH adjust (~5.5)

Method: Heat water and oil phases separately to 75 °C; emulsify by adding oil into water with high shear; homogenize, cool, and add cool-down ingredients below 40 °C.

C. Bi-Phase Makeup Remover

Phase	Ingredient	%	g	Function
Water	Deionized Water	72.0	72.0	Solvent
	Poloxamer 184	1.5	1.5	Surfactant
	Glycerin	3.0	3.0	Humectant
	Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin	1.0	1.0	Preservative
Oil	Ethylhexyl Cocoate	20.0	20.0	Emollient, heavy makeup dissolver
	Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride	2.5	2.5	Makes oil phase lighter

Method: Mix phases separately; fill water phase first, then oil phase; package in clear bottles. Shake well before use for makeup removal.

5. Where You’ll See It

Silky face serums and facial oils
Lightweight lotions and moisturizers
Sunscreens (as part of emollient blend)
Makeup remover oils and bi-phase removers

JustGlow Loves It Because…

Offers a non-silicone, luxurious, dry-touch feel
Enhances spreadability and skin glide on hydrating formulas
Safe and CIR-approved up to ~41%, ideal for rich textures
Supports clean‑label positioning (coconut-derived, biodegradable)

References

Fiume MM, et al. Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2015;34(Suppl 2):5S–101S. doi:10.1177/1091581815594027.
CIR Quick Reference Table. Ethylhexyl Cocoate (amended): safe up to 41% when formulated to be non-irritating. IJT 30(S1):5S–16S, 2013.
CIR Ingredient Page: Ethylhexyl Cocoate Safety Documentation. CIR Safety.
EWG Skin Deep: Ethylhexyl Cocoate not listed as restricted or unsafe.