Pullulan
Brief Description
Pullulan is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans. Known for its film-forming and moisturizing properties, Pullulan is widely used in skincare for its ability to create a smooth, tightening effect on the skin, making it ideal for anti-aging and instant-lifting formulations.
INCI Name
Pullulan
Appearance
A fine white to off-white powder.
Formulation Guidance
- Usage Rate: Typically used at 0.1–5% in formulations.
- Solubility: Water-soluble.
- pH Stability Range: 4.0–7.0 for optimal performance.
- Compatibility: Compatible with most water-based formulations, emulsions, and gels. Avoid using in high-salt environments, as this may affect its film-forming ability.
- Heat Stability: Stable up to 70°C; excessive heat can cause viscosity changes.
Scientific Data on Efficacy
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Benefits:
- Creates a tightening, lifting effect on the skin.
- Forms a protective film to shield skin from environmental aggressors.
- Provides a smooth texture and improved sensory feel in formulations.
- Acts as a binding agent in masks and other products.
- Research Highlights: Studies confirm Pullulan’s ability to improve skin firmness and provide immediate but temporary lifting effects, making it a popular choice for "instant result" products.
Reasons for Using Pullulan in Formulations
- Provides instant lifting and tightening effects.
- Enhances the sensorial properties of products, leaving skin feeling smooth.
- Acts as a stabilizer and film-former, improving product performance and texture.
- Suitable for anti-aging, sheet masks, and finishing treatments.
Consequences of Stability Loss in Formulations
When exposed to extreme heat or pH imbalances, Pullulan can lose its film-forming properties, reducing its ability to provide the desired tightening and protective effects.
Possible Alternatives for Skincare Formulation
- Hyaluronic Acid: For hydration and plumping effects.
- Agar or Alginates: For film-forming and moisture-retention properties.
- Pectin: For natural thickening and texture enhancement.
Where Pullulan is Found in Skincare Products
- Anti-aging creams and serums.
- Instant-lifting masks.
- Primer products for smoothing skin texture.
- Sheet masks and peel-off masks.
References to Quoted Research Studies
- Zaidel, D. et al. "Pullulan: Natural film-forming polysaccharide with skin tightening properties." Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016.
- Gupta, A. et al. "Applications of Pullulan in skincare and anti-aging products." Advances in Cosmetic Formulation, 2019.