Pullulan

Brief Description

Pullulan is a natural polysaccharide derived from the fermentation of starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans. Known for its film-forming and moisturizing properties, Pullulan is widely used in skincare for its ability to create a smooth, tightening effect on the skin, making it ideal for anti-aging and instant-lifting formulations.


INCI Name

Pullulan


Appearance

A fine white to off-white powder.


Formulation Guidance

  • Usage Rate: Typically used at 0.1–5% in formulations.
  • Solubility: Water-soluble.
  • pH Stability Range: 4.0–7.0 for optimal performance.
  • Compatibility: Compatible with most water-based formulations, emulsions, and gels. Avoid using in high-salt environments, as this may affect its film-forming ability.
  • Heat Stability: Stable up to 70°C; excessive heat can cause viscosity changes.

Scientific Data on Efficacy

  • Benefits:
    • Creates a tightening, lifting effect on the skin.
    • Forms a protective film to shield skin from environmental aggressors.
    • Provides a smooth texture and improved sensory feel in formulations.
    • Acts as a binding agent in masks and other products.
  • Research Highlights: Studies confirm Pullulan’s ability to improve skin firmness and provide immediate but temporary lifting effects, making it a popular choice for "instant result" products.

Reasons for Using Pullulan in Formulations

  • Provides instant lifting and tightening effects.
  • Enhances the sensorial properties of products, leaving skin feeling smooth.
  • Acts as a stabilizer and film-former, improving product performance and texture.
  • Suitable for anti-aging, sheet masks, and finishing treatments.

Consequences of Stability Loss in Formulations

When exposed to extreme heat or pH imbalances, Pullulan can lose its film-forming properties, reducing its ability to provide the desired tightening and protective effects.


Possible Alternatives for Skincare Formulation

  • Hyaluronic Acid: For hydration and plumping effects.
  • Agar or Alginates: For film-forming and moisture-retention properties.
  • Pectin: For natural thickening and texture enhancement.

Where Pullulan is Found in Skincare Products

  • Anti-aging creams and serums.
  • Instant-lifting masks.
  • Primer products for smoothing skin texture.
  • Sheet masks and peel-off masks.

References to Quoted Research Studies

  1. Zaidel, D. et al. "Pullulan: Natural film-forming polysaccharide with skin tightening properties." Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016.
  2. Gupta, A. et al. "Applications of Pullulan in skincare and anti-aging products." Advances in Cosmetic Formulation, 2019.