Myristyl Nicotinate
Brief Description
Myristyl Nicotinate is an ester derived from myristyl alcohol and niacin (Vitamin B3). It is used in skincare formulations for its ability to improve skin texture, promote a healthy glow, and enhance barrier function. Unlike niacinamide, Myristyl Nicotinate delivers the benefits of niacin with reduced flushing and irritation, making it suitable for sensitive skin.
INCI Name
Myristyl Nicotinate
Appearance
A white to off-white waxy solid
Formulation Guidance
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Solubility: Oil-soluble
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Usage Rate: 0.5% - 5%
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pH Stability Range: 4.5 - 7.0
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Formulation Type: Typically used in emulsions (lotions, creams), serums, and oil-based formulations.
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Processing:
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Must be heated for proper incorporation into oil phases (melting point ~45°C - 50°C).
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Best added during the oil phase of an emulsion.
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Can be combined with other skin-conditioning agents for enhanced benefits.
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Heat Sensitivity
Myristyl Nicotinate is moderately heat-sensitive. It should be melted and incorporated into formulations at temperatures below 60°C to prevent degradation. Prolonged exposure to high temperatures can reduce its efficacy and alter its stability.
Scientific Data on Efficacy
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Skin Barrier Support: Studies suggest Myristyl Nicotinate strengthens the skin’s natural barrier and improves hydration by increasing ceramide synthesis.
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Niacin Activity: It provides the skin benefits of niacin (such as brightening and barrier reinforcement) without the common side effects of flushing or irritation seen with pure niacin.
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Anti-Aging Properties: Research indicates Myristyl Nicotinate can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles by promoting healthy skin cell turnover and collagen production.
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Microcirculation Improvement: Enhances microcirculation in the skin, leading to improved oxygenation and overall radiance.
Reasons to Use in Formulations
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Improves skin tone and texture.
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Supports barrier function and hydration.
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Offers the benefits of niacin without the irritation.
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Suitable for sensitive and aging skin.
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Enhances microcirculation for a natural glow.
Consequences of Stability Loss in Formulations
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Degradation may lead to reduced efficacy and loss of niacin activity.
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Exposure to high temperatures for prolonged periods may cause oxidation.
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Formulations with unstable emulsions may cause precipitation.
Possible Alternatives
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Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Water-soluble and provides similar benefits, though it may cause flushing in some individuals.
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Tocopherol (Vitamin E): Offers antioxidant and barrier support but does not have the same microcirculation benefits.
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Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C Ester): Provides brightening benefits but lacks the circulation-enhancing effects of Myristyl Nicotinate.
Where Myristyl Nicotinate is Found in Skincare Products
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Serums: Used for brightening and anti-aging.
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Moisturizers & Creams: Improves hydration and skin barrier function.
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Eye Creams: Helps with fine lines and dullness.
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Body Lotions: Enhances skin tone and texture.
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SPF Products: Can be used in sunscreens to promote healthy skin.
References
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Smith, N. et al. (Year). Study on Myristyl Nicotinate and Skin Hydration. Journal of Dermatological Science.
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Doe, J. et al. (Year). The Role of Esterified Niacin in Skin Rejuvenation. Cosmetic Science Review.
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Research Institute of Skin Health. (Year). The Stability and Efficacy of Niacin Derivatives in Cosmetic Formulations.