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Dimethyl Isosorbide and How is it Used in Cosmetics?

Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) is a clear, water-soluble solvent derived from isosorbide, a biodegradable compound sourced from glucose. In cosmetic formulations, it is primarily used as a carrier and penetration enhancer, helping active ingredients like retinol, salicylic acid, and ascorbic acid absorb more effectively into the skin. By improving solubility and skin delivery, DMI boosts the efficacy of formulations, especially in serums, spot treatments, and chemical exfoliants.

Dimethyl Isosorbide Technical Details and Characteristics

  • INCI Name: Dimethyl Isosorbide

  • Appearance: Clear, colourless liquid

  • Solubility: Water-soluble, alcohol-soluble, and compatible with many organic solvents

  • Recommended Usage Rate: 1–10%

  • pH Stability: Stable across a broad pH range (3–10)

  • Function:

    • Solvent

    • Penetration enhancer

    • Carrier for active ingredients

  • Key Properties:

    • Enhances stability and delivery of actives

    • Non-irritating and gentle on skin

    • Improves texture and spreadability of formulations

  • Compatibility: Compatible with AHAs, BHAs, retinoids, niacinamide, ascorbic acid derivatives, and most botanical extracts

How to Incorporate Dimethyl Isosorbide into Formulations

  • Phase: Add to the water phase or post-emulsification phase, depending on formulation type

  • Temperature: Heat stable up to 80°C, but best added during the cool-down phase to preserve sensitive actives

  • pH Consideration: Stable in most typical skincare formulation pH ranges

  • Best Practices:

    • Ideal for enhancing the solubility of poorly water-soluble actives

    • Combine with actives like salicylic acid, retinoids, or niacinamide to improve delivery

    • Avoid in high concentrations with ingredients known for irritation in sensitive skin

Where Dimethyl Isosorbide is Found in Skincare Products

You’ll typically find Dimethyl Isosorbide in:

  • Anti-aging serums with retinol or peptides

  • Brightening treatments with ascorbic acid or alpha-arbutin

  • Acne-targeting products with salicylic acid or azelaic acid

  • Chemical exfoliants to boost active absorption

  • High-performance actives delivery systems

It’s ideal for night-time routines, spot treatments, or intensive skin therapies requiring deeper penetration of ingredients.