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Heptyl Undecylenate

1. What is Heptyl Undecylenate & How is it Used in Cosmetics?

INCI: Heptyl Undecylenate (also known as heptyl undec-10-enoate) is a lightweight, dry-touch ester produced from heptanol and undecylenic acid (derived from castor oil) [4]. It acts as a sensory modifier that reduces greasiness, enhances spreadability, and improves the feel of emulsions, oils, and sunscreens. It is also used as a solubilizer for oil-soluble actives. Safety has been reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), which concluded it is safe as used in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating [1][2].

2. Technical Details & Characteristics

  • Appearance: Clear to pale yellow liquid

  • Solubility: Oil-soluble

  • Processing: Heat stable up to 80–85 °C

  • Compatibility: Oils, esters, silicones, UV filters, film-formers

  • Typical Usage Rate: 2–10% in emulsions; up to 30% in anhydrous systems

  • pH Stability: Not pH sensitive (oil phase ingredient)

  • Sustainability: Derived from renewable castor oil feedstock [4]

3. How to Formulate (Independent Formulator Guidance)

  • Role: Sensory enhancer, viscosity reducer, slip agent

  • Add to: Oil phase in emulsions, or directly in anhydrous systems

  • For water-soluble actives (e.g., niacinamide): use an O/W emulsion or bi-phase system — do not add directly to oils

  • pH Guidance: Adjust aqueous phase to suit actives; HU is unaffected by pH

  • Stability Checks: Test heat/cool cycles, 40 °C storage, centrifuge

4. Ready-to-Use Example Formulas

A. Lightweight O/W Face Lotion with 5% Niacinamide (100 g batch)

Phase Ingredient % g Function
A – Water Phase Deionized Water 66.70 66.70 Solvent
Niacinamide 5.00 5.00 Brightening active
Glycerin 4.00 4.00 Humectant
Xanthan Gum (soft grade) 0.20 0.20 Thickener
Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 Chelating agent
B – Oil Phase Heptyl Undecylenate 8.00 8.00 Dry-touch emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 7.00 7.00 Emollient
Squalane 3.00 3.00 Skin-conditioning agent
Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00 2.00 Co-emulsifier, texture
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 3.00 3.00 Primary emulsifier
C – Cool Down Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00 1.00 Preservative
Citric/Lactic Acid q.s. q.s. pH adjustment (5.8–6.0)

Method:

  1. Disperse xanthan in part of water, then add rest of Phase A; heat to 75–80 °C.

  2. Heat Phase B to 75–80 °C.

  3. Emulsify (B into A) with high shear, homogenise briefly.

  4. Cool with gentle stirring; at <40 °C add Phase C; adjust pH; fill.

B. Silicone-Free Dry-Touch Face Oil (100 g batch)

Ingredient % g Function
Heptyl Undecylenate 60.00 60.00 Dry-touch emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 20.00 20.00 Emollient base
Squalane 19.00 19.00 Skin-conditioning agent
Tocopherol (Vitamin E, mixed T-50) 1.00 1.00 Antioxidant

Method:

  1. Cold blend all ingredients until homogeneous.

  2. Nitrogen-flush if possible; fill into airless bottles.

C. Bi-Phase Micellar Makeup Remover (100 g batch)

Phase Ingredient % g Function
A – Water Phase Deionized Water 72.70 72.70 Solvent
Glycerin 3.00 3.00 Humectant
Poloxamer 184 1.50 1.50 Mild surfactant
PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides 1.00 1.00 Solubiliser
Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 Chelating agent
Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00 1.00 Preservative
B – Oil Phase Heptyl Undecylenate 18.00 18.00 Dry-touch emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2.70 2.70 Emollient

Method:

  1. Prepare Phase A in beaker; stir until uniform; adjust pH to ~5.5–6.0.

  2. Prepare Phase B in separate vessel.

  3. Fill bottle with water phase first, then oil phase.

  4. Package in clear bottle; instruct to shake before each use.

5. Where You’ll See It

  • Light moisturising lotions and creams

  • Dry oils and serums

  • Sunscreen and colour cosmetics (as a solvent for UV filters/pigments)

  • Cleansing oils and bi-phase removers

JustGlow Loves It Because…

  • Delivers luxurious, quick-absorbing feel

  • Reduces heaviness in rich formulas without sacrificing nourishment

  • Supports green chemistry and silicone-free positioning

  • Safe, versatile, and supported by peer-reviewed sensorial studies [3]

References

  1. Fiume MM, et al. Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2015;34(Suppl 2):5S–69S. doi:10.1177/1091581815594027.

  2. Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final Report on Alkyl Esters. CIR, 2018.

  3. Huynh A, et al. Measurements meet perceptions: rheology–texture–sensory relations when using green, bio-derived emollients in cosmetic emulsions. Int J Cosmetic Science. 2021;43(1):11–19. doi:10.1111/ics.12661.

  4. Van der Steen M, Stevens CV. Undecylenic Acid: A Valuable and Physiologically Active Renewable Building Block from Castor Oil. ChemSusChem. 2009;2(8):692–713. doi:10.1002/cssc.200900075.

  5. Del Olmo M, et al. Effects of Structure on the Solubility of UV Filters. Cosmetics. 2022;9(3):60. doi:10.3390/cosmetics9030060.