Benefits of Green Coffee Seed Oil in Skincare
Scientific name: Coffea Arabica
Family: Rubiaceae (madder family)
Other names: Arabica Coffee, Mountain Coffee
Plant Part: Seed
INCI: Coffea Arabica Seed Oil
Composition and Characteristics of Green Coffee Seed Oil
Phytosterols 20,000 to 50,000mg/kg, Phospholipids 1000 to 5000 mg/kg
Terpenoids 9000 to 21,000 mg/kg, Vitamin E 120mg/kg ( mainly β-tocopherol)
The unique feature of Coffee Seed Oil when compared with other carrier oils, is its high level of unsaponifiable matter. Which is around 10 to 15%. Green Coffee Seed oil has high concentration of essential fatty acids and Phytosterols. It can be as high as 5% and phospholids as high as 0.5%. High concentration of essential fatty acid helps with problematic skin and cell formation. Its terpenoids - represented by compounds (castor and kahweol) are also worth highlighting [1].
Benefits of Green Coffee Oil for skincare formulations
When producing antiaging skincare products is important to ensure that products can reduce the oxidative damage of free radicals. [1]. Oxidative damage weakens elastin and collagen production and can lead to the overproduction of melanosomes [2].
Green coffee oil has recently become a quite famous natural antiaging cosmetic product. Scientific in vitro studies demonstrated that coffee oil can stimulate collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans synthesis [3]. As a consequence of aging, our natural natural collagen and elastin production tends to decrease. Therefore, its stimulation is essential, as it helps reducing the incidence of fine lines and wrinkles.
Recent studies demonstrated that cafestol and kahweol (one of coffee's diterpenoids and a component of Coffee Oil) have anti-inflammatory properties and anti-cancerous properties [4]. It is also important to note that these compounds are heat sensitive and, therefore, cold oil extraction methods might be preferable.
Several studies proved that Coffee Oil is a suitable ingredient for cosmetic formulations, especially for the purpose of improving UVB sun protection. The SPF values of this oil vary between 2.0– 5.0. However, the unsaponifiable matter extracted from Green Coffee Oil has SPF levels 10 times higher than the ones occurring in the oil [5].
Over exposure to sun radiation can lead to premature aging and age spots. Therefore, adequate protection is crucial to prevent the premature formation of fine lines and wrinkles. Green Coffee Seed Oil is one of the most powerful options to consider in these regards.
Coffee Seed Oil: Benefits of Cold Pressed Oil Production
Cold pressing seed oils (i.e. pressing them at low temperatures - < 50°C) ensures the retention of their purity and chemical composition [6].
With regards to Coffee Oil, the cold pressing method yields and preserves remarkable amounts of antioxidants in comparison with other extraction methods. Due to its high content of unsaponifiable matter (around 19%), green coffee oil is not edible. It is, though, becoming quite popular amongst the medical and cosmetic fields [7].
Comedogenic rating of Green Coffee Seed Oil
The comedogenic rating refers to the likelihood of an oil to clog the pores and to cause skin breakouts. Comedogenic rating rates oils on scale of 0 to 5.
Zero indicates it is very unlikely that the application of the oil will cause skin breakouts or clog the pores. Five on the other hand, indicates that it is very likely that these reactions will occur. Oils that have a high concentration of Linoleic Acid normally have low comedogenic ratings.
Green coffee oil is rated 2 out of 5 and it can be suitable to acne prone skin and damaged wrinkled skin.
Does Green Coffee Oil have Vitamin C?
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that has been used in anti-aging cosmetics for many years. Nevertheless, Vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin that does not occur in oils.
Oil soluble Vitamin C derivatives, such as Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate or Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, can be added into cosmetic formulation but then must be included in the product's ingredient list.
Is there caffeine in Green Coffee oil and is it harmful?
In Brazil, Coffee oil has been regarded as a rather popular treatment for cellulite for many years. This trend recently started to spread all over the world. As far as our research could go, there are no studies that confirm Green Coffee Oil or Coffee Oil's effectiveness as a treatment for cellulite.
There is also a strong belief that applying coffee oil around the eyes can help with puffy eyes. Many pieces of research suggest that caffeine is supposed to increase microcirculation, accelerate the elimination of fluid from the tissue, and stimulate lipolysis. However there is no solid scientific evidence that this process actually occurs after the topical application of Green Coffee Oil [8].
Coffea arabica bean contains caffeine (0.6 to 1.7%). It is important to note that caffeine is a water soluble ingredient and, thus, it does not occur naturally in oil. It is possible that small amounts of caffeine remain in the oil during extraction process. Such amounts would be minimal and they would virtually have no impact the oil's topical application.
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Is Green Coffee Oil safe?
Scientific research dedicated to analysing the safety of of natural ingredients' application to cosmetic products is quite scarce.
Several in vitro studies which examined the human keratinocytes of Green Coffee Oil showed no cytotoxicity effects up to 100 μg mL− 1 [9].
These findings were supported by another which showed no cytotoxicity of Coffee Oil against liver cells (through in vitro tests), even at high concentrations [10].
Another study corroborated the safety and efficacy of Green Coffee Oil for topical application. Cosmetic formulas with Coffee Oil concentrations between 2.5% and 15% were tested on human volunteers. The results showed a slight decrease of water loss when the formulation was applied. None of the volunteers displayed any reaction after using an occlusive patch [11].
Further research showed the fast wound healing properties of Green Coffee Oil, when topically applied, and increase in collagen density [12].
The cosmetic products with Propolis and Green Coffee Seed Oil displayed anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antiaging properties. In the same time it has been shown to reduce the roughness of the skin, improves moisture levels of the skin and help with stretch marks [13].
Green Coffee Oil: Final Remarks
If you are looking for the best natural anti-aging facial oil, Green Coffee Oil meets all the necessary requirements. Studies have proven its antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and anticancer features. Moreover, scientific research also highlights its important role when it comes to boosting collagen production, fostering skin's natural elasticity and preventing wrinkles. It also helps to protect the skin from harmful solar radiation, which is a crucial part of one's skincare routine.
References
[1] Palmer, D. M. & Kitchin, J. S. (2010) Oxidative damage, skin aging, antioxidants and a novel antioxidant rating system. J Drugs Dermatol. 9: 11-15.
[2] Palmer D. M. & Kitchin J. S. (2010) A Double-blind, randomized, controlled clinical trial evaluating the efficacy and tolerance of a novel phenolic antioxidant skin care system containing Coffea arabica and concentrated fruit and vegetable extracts J Drugs Dermatol 9: 1480-1487.
[3] Velásquez, M. D. C. P. et al. (2009)Effect of green Coffea arabica L. seed oil on extracellular matrix components and water-channel expression in in vitro and ex vivo human skin models J Cosmetic Derm 8: 56-62.
[4] Renehan, A. G., Booth, C. & Potten, C. S. (2001) What is apoptosis, and why is it important? BMJ. 322(7301): 1536-1538. doi: 10.1136/bmj.322.7301.1536.
[5] Wagemaker, T. A. L. et al. (2016) Unsaponifiable matter from oil of green coffee beans: Cosmetic properties and safety evaluation. Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy. 42(10):1695–1699. doi:10.3109/03639045.2016.1165692.
[6] Bhatol, K. (2013) Castor oil obtained by cold press method. Banaskantha, Gujarat: Shri Bhgwati Oil Mill (SBOM) Manufacturer’s Info.
[7] Rincon M. A. D., Maciel F. R. & Maciel M. R. W. (2011) Fractionation of green coffee oil by molecular distillation: Modeling and simulation,Journal of Materials Science and Engineering. 1(2): 264–272.
[8] Glavac, N. K. & Janes, D. (2021) Modern Cosmetics - Ingredients of Natural Origin: A Scientific View, Volume1[Encyclopedia of natural cosmetic ingredients]
[9] Wagemaker T. A. L. et al. (2015) Integrated approach in the assessment of skin compatibility of cosmetic formulations with green coffee oil, International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 37(5):506–510. doi:10.1111/ics.12225.
[10] Chiari B. G. et al. (2014) Synergistic effect of green coffee oil and synthetic sunscreen for health care application. Industrial Crops and Products. 52: 389–393.
[11] Wagemaker T. A. L. et al. (2015). Integrated approach in the assessment of skin compatibility of cosmetic formulations with green coffee oil. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 37(5):506–510.doi:10.1111/ics.12225.
[12] Lania B.G. et al. (2017)Topical use and systemic action of green and roasted coffee oils and ground oils in a cutaneous incision model in rats (Rattus norvegicus albinus) PLoS One.12(12):e0188779/1–e0188779/17doi:10.1372/ journalpone.0188779.
[13] Ribeiro M. C. M., Paulino, N. & Marques dos Santos, A. (2014) Cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations based on coffee oil and propolis, Brazilian Patent, PI, BR 102012019950 A2 20140909.