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Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquicaprylate

1. What is Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquicaprylate and How is it Used in Cosmetics?

Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquicaprylate is a non-ionic emulsifier created from diglycerol and caprylic fatty acid (typically from coconut or palm kernel oils). It is valued for its gentle, PEG-free emulsifying action, making it popular in oil-based cleansers, makeup removers, and mild emulsions.
It enables oil and water phases to blend smoothly, producing stable, elegant formulations that rinse clean without leaving a greasy residue¹².

2. Technical Details and Characteristics

  • INCI Name: Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquicaprylate

  • Appearance: Clear to pale-yellow viscous liquid¹

  • Solubility: Oil-dispersible; self-emulsifies in water with gentle stirring

  • Typical Usage Rate: 0.1–10% (5% common for cleansing oils)²

  • pH Stability: 4.0–8.0²

  • Key Properties:

    • Mild emulsifier for rinse-off cleansers

    • PEG-free and biodegradable⁴

    • Produces non-greasy finish

  • Compatibility: Works well with natural oils, esters, silicones, and mild surfactants.

3. How to Incorporate into Formulations (Independent Formulators)

  • Oil Cleansers & Balms: Add to oil phase; no heating unless solid butters are used.

  • Two-Phase Cleansers: Combine oil and water phases in packaging; shake before use.

  • Emulsions: Add to oil phase prior to emulsification.

  • Temperature: Stable up to ~70 °C; avoid prolonged heating²³.

  • pH: Stable from 4–8².

  • Best Practice: For rinse-off products, combine with lightweight esters for better rinse-off and skin feel.

4. Ready-to-Use Example Formulas

A. Gentle Rinse-Off Cleansing Oil (100g batch)

Phase Ingredient % g Function
A Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquicaprylate 5 5g Primary emulsifier
A Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 45 45g Lightweight emollient
A Squalane (Olive-derived) 20 20g Skin-conditioning
A Jojoba Oil 20 20g Nourishing oil
A Tocopherol 0.5 0.5g Antioxidant
A Fragrance or Essential Oil (optional) 0.5 0.5g Scent
Total 100 100g

Method:

  1. Combine all ingredients in a beaker.

  2. Stir until uniform.

  3. Package in a pump bottle.

  4. Massage into dry skin, then rinse with water.

B. Melting Cleansing Balm (100g batch)

Phase Ingredient % g Function
A Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquicaprylate 8 8g Primary emulsifier
A Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 25 25g Lightweight emollient
A Shea Butter 20 20g Rich emollient
A Candelilla Wax 5 5g Structure & hardness
A Coconut Oil (Fractionated) 40.5 40.5g Cleansing oil base
A Tocopherol 0.5 0.5g Antioxidant
A Essential Oil Blend (optional) 1 1g Scent
Total 100 100g

Method:

  1. Melt butters and waxes at ~70 °C.

  2. Remove from heat; add remaining ingredients and stir well.

  3. Pour into jars while warm; allow to set.

  4. Apply to dry skin, then rinse off.

C. Bi-Phase Micellar Makeup Remover (100g batch)

Phase Ingredient % g Function
Oil Phase (A) Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquicaprylate 3 3g Primary emulsifier
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 7 7g Makeup-dissolving emollient
Squalane (Olive-derived) 5 5g Skin-conditioning
Tocopherol 0.3 0.3g Antioxidant
Water Phase (B) Distilled Water 77.7 77.7g Solvent
Glycerin 5 5g Humectant
Preservative (broad-spectrum) 2 2g Preservation
Total 100 100g

Method:

  1. Combine Oil Phase ingredients in one beaker.

  2. Combine Water Phase ingredients in another; stir until dissolved.

  3. Add Oil Phase to bottle, then Water Phase.

  4. Package in clear bottle; phases will separate.

  5. Shake before each use.

5. Where It’s Found in Skincare Products

  • Oil cleansers

  • Cleansing balms

  • Bi-phase makeup removers

  • Milky makeup removers

  • Sensitive-skin cleansers

JustGlow Loves It Because…

  • Gentle & PEG-Free: Perfect for natural and sensitive-skin formulations.

  • Highly Versatile: Works in rinse-off and leave-on systems.

  • Eco-Friendly: Derived from renewable sources; biodegradable⁴.

  • Regulatory Confidence: Supported by CIR safety reviews and toxicology studies²³.

References

  1. Zhang M. et al. Recent Advances in the Properties and Applications of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters in Food, Cosmetics, and Pharmaceuticals. Polymers. 2025;17(7):879.

  2. Fiume MM, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2023;42(2_suppl):5S–101S.

  3. Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmetics. CIR Final Report. 2016.

  4. Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme (AICIS). Assessment Statement – Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters. 2023.