PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate – Cleansing Oil Emulsifier & Non-Ionic Surfactant
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate is an oil-compatible, non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier used to create self-emulsifying cleansing oils, cleansing balms, makeup removers and rinse-off oil formulations.
When water is added, it helps the oil phase transform into a light, milky emulsion that rinses more easily from the skin. This makes it particularly useful for formulating cleansing products designed to dissolve makeup, sunscreen and oil-soluble impurities without leaving an excessively greasy residue.
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate is generally easy to incorporate into oil-based formulations and can help create elegant products suitable for modern double-cleansing routines.
Why Formulators Use PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
- Helps cleansing oils turn milky when mixed with water
- Allows oil-based formulations to rinse more cleanly
- Functions as a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier
- Helps remove makeup, sunscreen and oil-soluble residues
- Suitable for self-emulsifying cleansing oils and balms
- Compatible with many cosmetic oils and emollient esters
- Can be used in cold-process anhydrous formulations
- Helps reduce the heavy residue associated with traditional oil cleansers
- Produces relatively low levels of foam
- Supports smooth spreading and an elegant cleansing experience
Product Information
INCI: PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
Ingredient type: Non-ionic surfactant, emulsifier and cleansing agent
Appearance: Clear to pale-yellow viscous liquid
Typical starting use level: 5–20%
Solubility: Oil-compatible and dispersible in water during rinsing
Recommended addition: Add to the oil phase
Processing: Suitable for cold processing when sufficiently fluid
The ideal concentration depends on the selected oils, desired rinse-off performance, product viscosity and the amount of residue intended to remain on the skin.
How to Use
Add PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate directly to the oil phase and mix until the formulation is completely uniform.
It can normally be cold processed. If the material or other ingredients are too thick to mix effectively, gentle warming may be used. Avoid unnecessary prolonged heating.
For cleansing oils, combine it with cosmetic oils or lightweight emollients and test the finished product by applying it to dry skin, massaging with wet hands and rinsing with water.
For cleansing balms, incorporate it into the melted oil, butter and wax phase before allowing the product to cool.
Example Calculation
For a 100 g cleansing oil using PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate at 15%:
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate required: 15 g
For a 1 kg cleansing oil using PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate at 15%:
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate required: 150 g
Suitable Formulation Types
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate can be used in:
- Facial cleansing oils
- Self-emulsifying oil cleansers
- Cleansing balms
- Makeup removers
- Eye-makeup removers
- Sunscreen-removing cleansers
- Shower oils
- Bath oils
- Rinse-off massage oils
- Anhydrous facial cleansers
- Pre-cleansing treatments
- Double-cleansing products
Formulation Ideas
Self-Emulsifying Cleansing Oil
Combine PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate with lightweight oils and cosmetic esters to create a fluid cleanser that turns milky on contact with water.
Makeup-Melting Cleansing Balm
Incorporate it into a balm containing cosmetic oils, butters and structuring waxes. The balm melts during massage and emulsifies when water is added.
Lightweight Eye-Makeup Remover
Use it within a carefully designed fragrance-free oil cleanser intended to dissolve long-wearing eye makeup. Eye-area suitability must be established through appropriate safety testing.
Rinse-Off Shower Oil
Combine with skin-conditioning oils to produce a shower oil that spreads smoothly and forms a light emulsion during rinsing.
Rinse-Off Massage Oil
Add it to a massage-oil base to allow the product to emulsify and wash away more easily after use.
Simple Cleansing Oil Starting Formula
- Lightweight cosmetic oil or emollient: 84.5%
- PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate: 15%
- Tocopherol: 0.5%
This is an experimental starting point rather than a commercially validated finished formula. The emulsifier concentration may need to be adjusted depending on the selected oils and desired rinse-off performance.
The finished formulation must undergo appropriate stability, compatibility and safety testing before commercial sale.
Formulation Tips
- Begin with a small laboratory batch to determine the best oil-to-emulsifier ratio.
- Test the formulation with both warm and cool water.
- Check how quickly the oil turns milky during rinsing.
- Increase the emulsifier level gradually if the product leaves too much oily residue.
- Reduce the level if the product feels excessively cleansing or causes discomfort.
- Lightweight esters can improve spreading and produce a cleaner after-feel.
- High levels of waxes and butters may require additional emulsifier optimisation.
- Test compatibility with fragrances, antioxidants and oil-soluble active ingredients.
- Ensure the formulation remains clear and uniform at different storage temperatures.
- Follow the supplier’s technical documentation for the specific grade supplied.
Cleansing Performance
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate helps disperse the oil phase into water during rinsing. It does not need to produce large amounts of foam to cleanse effectively.
The finished product’s cleansing strength and after-feel will depend on:
- The type of oils and esters used
- The concentration of PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
- The amount of wax or butter in the formula
- The quantity of water used during rinsing
- Any additional surfactants included in the formulation
Is It Suitable for Cold Processing?
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate can generally be used in cold-process oil formulations when all ingredients are liquid and easy to combine.
Gentle warming may be required when producing balms or when working with solid oils, waxes or butters. Mix thoroughly to ensure the emulsifier is evenly distributed throughout the product.
Does It Require a Preservative?
A completely anhydrous cleansing oil or balm may not support microbial growth in the same way as a water-containing formulation. However, contamination can still occur during manufacturing or consumer use, particularly when the product is exposed to wet hands or stored in a bathroom.
The requirement for a preservative must be assessed for the complete formulation, packaging and intended use. Any product containing water requires an appropriate broad-spectrum preservative system and microbiological testing.
Tocopherol may help delay oxidation of oils, but it is an antioxidant—not a preservative.
Storage
Store tightly closed in a cool, dry and well-ventilated place. Protect from direct sunlight, moisture and excessive heat.
The product’s viscosity or clarity may change at lower temperatures. Gentle warming and mixing may restore its normal consistency.
Important Information
This is a cosmetic raw material intended for formulation use. It is not a finished cleanser and should not be applied directly to the skin in its supplied form.
For external cosmetic formulation use only. Avoid contact with the eyes. Keep out of reach of children. Wear suitable protective equipment when handling raw materials.
The formulator is responsible for determining the appropriate use level and assessing the safety, stability, packaging compatibility and regulatory compliance of the finished product.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate used for?
It is primarily used as a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier in cleansing oils, cleansing balms, makeup removers and other rinse-off oil products.
Does it make cleansing oil turn milky?
Yes. It helps disperse the oil phase into water, creating the characteristic milky emulsion associated with self-emulsifying cleansing oils.
Can it remove waterproof makeup?
It can support the removal of oil-soluble and long-wearing makeup as part of a properly formulated cleansing product. Performance depends on the complete combination of oils, esters and emulsifiers used.
Can it be used in cleansing balms?
Yes. It can be incorporated into the heated oil phase of cleansing balms containing waxes, butters and liquid oils.
Is it soluble in water?
It is primarily incorporated into the oil phase. When water is added during cleansing, it helps the oil disperse and form a rinseable emulsion.
What percentage should I use?
A practical starting range is approximately 5–20%. Around 10–15% may be evaluated for a cleansing oil, but the optimal amount depends on the selected oils and desired rinse-off profile.
Is PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate the same as Glyceryl Triisostearate?
No. They are related but different ingredients. The PEG-20 portion gives PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate greater surfactant and self-emulsifying functionality.
Does it create foam?
It is generally used for emulsification and oil dispersion rather than high foaming. A cleansing oil can remove makeup effectively without producing conventional foam.