Oilkemia™ 5S CC Polymer – Crystal-Clear Oil Thickener & Rheology Modifier for Balms, Cleansing Oils, Sticks & Anhydrous Cosmetics

Transform ordinary oils into crystal-clear gels, elegant cleansing balms, non-drip serums and sophisticated solid textures.

Oilkemia™ 5S CC Polymer is a high-performance oil-soluble cosmetic thickener, rheology modifier and suspending agent developed for formulators who want to create beautiful oil-based textures without the heavy, cloudy or waxy appearance associated with many traditional structuring ingredients.

Instead of simply making oils thicker, Oilkemia™ 5S CC can help create:

• Crystal-clear oil gels
• Gel-to-oil cleansers
• Cleansing balms
• Anhydrous facial serums
• Lip oils and glosses
• Oil-based masks
• Massage gels
• Solid sticks
• Colour cosmetics
• Sun-care formulations
• Suspended visual effects
• High-oil emulsions

It is particularly interesting for formulators who want to turn a simple liquid oil blend into something that feels more luxurious, controlled and professionally engineered.

Oilkemia™ 5S CC Polymer provides thickening, clarity, suspension and stability while helping reduce the greasy after-feel normally associated with high-oil formulations.

What is Oilkemia™ 5S CC Polymer and How is it Used in Cosmetics?

Oilkemia™ 5S CC Polymer is a multifunctional oil-soluble rheology modifier manufactured by Lubrizol.

Its INCI is:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

The product is supplied as approximately 30% polymer solids dispersed in Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride.

It is designed to build structure inside oils and oil mixtures.

In simple terms:

Liquid oil goes in → structured, elegant oil gel comes out.

Depending on how much you use and the oil system you choose, you can move from:

thin oil → non-drip serum → gel oil → balm → thick cream-like texture → solid stick

without automatically turning the formulation opaque.

That ability to create clear or translucent structured oil systems is what makes Oilkemia™ 5S CC so unusual.

Oilkemia™ 5S CC Polymer at a Glance

Trade Name: Oilkemia™ 5S CC Polymer

Manufacturer: Lubrizol

INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Function: Oil thickener / rheology modifier / suspending agent / sensory modifier / dispersant

Recommended Use Level: 1–6% as supplied

Polymer Solids: Approximately 30%

Solubility: Oil soluble

Best Performance: Particularly effective in medium- and high-polarity oil systems

Appearance in Formulation: Can produce exceptionally clear oil gels

Suitable For: Skin care, cleansing products, sun care, colour cosmetics and selected hair-care formulations

Formulation Level: Intermediate

Why Do Formulators Use Oilkemia™ 5S CC Polymer?

Because sometimes an oil is exactly the right ingredient...

but completely the wrong texture.

Imagine a beautiful formulation containing:

Squalane + Jojoba Oil + THDC + Bakuchiol

The ingredients may be excellent.

But the finished product is still essentially:

a bottle of runny oil.

Oilkemia™ 5S CC gives the formulator control over what that oil blend becomes.

You can turn it into:

a serum

a jelly

a balm

a non-drip oil

a stick

a glossy treatment

That is the real value of a rheology modifier.

It doesn't necessarily change what ingredients are in your formula.

It changes how the formula behaves.

From Oil to Crystal-Clear Gel

One of the most exciting characteristics of Oilkemia™ 5S CC is its ability to thicken oils while maintaining excellent clarity.

Traditional waxes such as:

• Beeswax
• Candelilla Wax
• Carnauba Wax
• Rice Bran Wax
• Microcrystalline Wax

can create excellent structure.

But they often also make the product:

opaque • waxy • heavier • more solid

Oilkemia™ 5S CC can create a very different aesthetic.

Clear.

Glossy.

Modern.

Almost glass-like.

This makes it particularly attractive for premium transparent skincare and colour cosmetic concepts.

Why Texture Matters

A formula can contain exceptional ingredients and still feel amateur if the texture isn't right.

Imagine three products containing exactly the same oils.

Formula A

Runs immediately down your hand.

Formula B

Feels thick and waxy.

Formula C

Forms a glossy, controlled gel that melts beautifully across the skin.

The ingredient list may be similar.

The consumer experience is completely different.

That is why professional formulators work with rheology modifiers.

Oilkemia™ 5S CC allows you to design the behaviour of the oil phase rather than simply accepting the natural viscosity of the oils you have chosen.

More Than an Oil Thickener

Oilkemia™ 5S CC does more than simply increase viscosity.

It can provide several functions within the same formulation.

Thickening

Transforms fluid oils into structured systems.

Suspension

Helps suspend decorative or functional materials throughout the formulation.

Stabilisation

Helps maintain uniform distribution and structure.

Sensory Modification

Can reduce the greasy after-feel of oil-rich formulations.

Flow Control

Creates shear-thinning behaviour, allowing a product to feel structured in the container but spread smoothly during application.

Dispersion Support

Can improve the distribution of certain pigments and particulate materials.

This is what makes Oilkemia™ 5S CC a multifunctional formulation tool, rather than simply another wax.

What Does Shear-Thinning Mean?

This sounds complicated but is actually a very useful cosmetic property.

Imagine a gel sitting inside a jar.

It is thick enough to stay exactly where it is.

Then you scoop some out and rub it across the skin.

Suddenly it becomes easier to spread.

That behaviour is called:

Shear thinning.

The movement created during application temporarily reduces resistance to flow.

When movement stops, the structured character of the product returns.

This can create products that feel:

luxurious in the jar + beautifully fluid on the skin.

Recommended Use Level

Lubrizol recommends an average level of:

1–6% Oilkemia™ 5S CC Polymer as supplied

The amount you choose will depend on:

• Oil polarity
• Desired viscosity
• Total oil composition
• Other structurants
• Final product format
• Temperature
• Required suspension
• Desired sensory profile

As a general development approach:

Lower Level

Useful when you want slight thickening or improved flow control.

Medium Level

Useful for gel oils, cleansing oils and serum-like textures.

Higher Level

Useful when developing thicker balms, gels or highly structured oil systems.

Always conduct your own viscosity and stability testing.

Which Oils Work With Oilkemia™ 5S CC?

Oilkemia™ 5S CC is designed for use across a broad range of cosmetic oil systems.

Lubrizol specifically identifies compatibility with:

• Vegetable oils
• Triglycerides
• Cosmetic esters
• Organic UV-filter systems
• Mixed oil phases

It performs particularly efficiently in medium- and high-polarity oil systems.

Interesting ingredients to experiment with include:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Excellent starting carrier and already part of the supplied Oilkemia™ composition.

Isoamyl Laurate

Useful for creating lighter, less greasy textures.

Octyldodecanol

Interesting for active-solubilising and colour cosmetic systems.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Particularly useful in elegant oil and sun-care systems.

Botanical Oils

Such as Jojoba, Rosehip, Grapeseed and other compatible plant oils.

Cosmetic Esters

Excellent for developing modern sensory profiles.

How to Use Oilkemia™ 5S CC Polymer

Oilkemia™ 5S CC is incorporated into the oil phase.

Successful formulation depends on allowing the polymer to become fully solubilised and uniformly distributed within the oil system.

Step 1 – Build Your Oil Phase

Choose your oils, esters and oil-soluble actives.

For example:

Squalane + Isoamyl Laurate + Bakuchiol

or

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride + Jojoba Oil + THDC

or

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate + oil-soluble UV ingredients

Step 2 – Add Oilkemia™ 5S CC Polymer

Add the required amount to the oil phase.

Typical development range:

1–6%

Step 3 – Heat and Mix Until Fully Uniform

Heat the oil phase while mixing until the Oilkemia™ polymer has fully solubilised and the system becomes uniform.

Processing temperature depends on the complete oil system.

Professional formulation examples commonly heat Oilkemia-containing oil phases to approximately 80–85°C, while some highly structured stick systems may use higher temperatures.

The goal is not simply to reach a particular number.

The goal is:

complete polymer solubilisation.

Step 4 – Cool the Formula

As the system cools, the final rheological structure develops.

Continue mixing as required for your formulation and packaging format.

Step 5 – Evaluate the Final Texture

Check:

• Clarity
• Viscosity
• Flow
• Suspension
• Skin feel
• Syneresis
• Oil separation
• Heat stability
• Low-temperature stability
• Packaging compatibility

Allow the formulation sufficient time to reach its final structure before making major viscosity adjustments.

Formulator's Tip – Don't Judge It While It's Hot

A hot Oilkemia™ formulation may look much thinner than the final product.

The rheological structure develops as the system cools.

If you keep adding polymer simply because your hot batch looks too fluid, you may discover that the finished product becomes much thicker than intended.

Formulate → cool → allow structure to develop → evaluate.

Then adjust your next batch.

Create Products That Look Almost Impossible

One of the most creative uses of Oilkemia™ 5S CC is suspension.

Because it creates structure while retaining clarity, you can experiment with products where visible particles appear suspended inside the formula.

Depending on the complete formulation, concepts could include:

• Decorative beads
• Microcapsules
• Exfoliating particles
• Pearlescent pigments
• Shimmer
• Colour pigments
• Botanical visual elements

Instead of everything immediately sinking to the bottom of the bottle, the structured oil network can help hold materials in suspension.

This opens the door to highly visual product concepts.

What Can You Make With Oilkemia™ 5S CC?

Crystal-Clear Cleansing Balm

Turn cleansing oils and esters into a glossy, transparent balm with a completely different aesthetic from conventional wax-heavy cleansing balms.

Gel-to-Oil Cleanser

Create a structured gel that transforms into a silky oil during massage.

A particularly interesting format for modern facial cleansing.

Vitamin C Oil Jelly

Combine an oil-soluble Vitamin C derivative such as Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate with lightweight emollients and Oilkemia™ 5S CC.

Instead of another facial oil...

you now have an elegant Vitamin C oil jelly.

Bakuchiol Night Gel

Create a transparent anhydrous gel containing Bakuchiol and lightweight emollients.

Excellent for formulators who want something more distinctive than a basic Bakuchiol facial oil.

Lip Oil Gel

Create glossy, non-drip lip products with controlled flow and beautiful shine.

Illuminating Body Oil Gel

Transform a runny shimmer body oil into a luxurious gel capable of helping suspend decorative pigments.

Makeup Removing Stick

Oilkemia™ 5S CC can be used as part of highly structured systems including solid sticks.

Lubrizol itself demonstrates Oilkemia™ in concepts including makeup-removing sticks.

Crystal Serum

Create a transparent, glossy anhydrous serum with the visual appearance of a gel but the sensory benefits of an oil formulation.

Oilkemia™ 5S CC in Cleansing Balms

This is one of the most exciting applications.

Traditional cleansing balms commonly rely heavily on waxes.

That works beautifully, but the finished balm is usually:

opaque + waxy + relatively solid

Oilkemia™ allows a very different concept:

Crystal-clear cleansing balm.

You can combine it with:

• Lightweight oils
• Cosmetic esters
• Emulsifying cleansing ingredients
• Botanical oils
• Oil-soluble soothing ingredients

to produce a visually striking cleanser.

Lubrizol lists applications including both Deep Cleansing Oil Gel and Crystal Clear Cleansing Balm.

Oilkemia™ 5S CC vs Traditional Cosmetic Wax

Both can structure oils.

But the final aesthetic can be very different.

Traditional Waxes

Such as Beeswax or Candelilla Wax:

• Excellent structural materials
• Often create solid or semi-solid balms
• Usually increase opacity
• Can add waxiness and drag
• Particularly useful for sticks and rich balms

Oilkemia™ 5S CC

• Polymeric rheology modifier
• Can maintain excellent clarity
• Provides shear-thinning flow
• Can create gel-like textures
• Helps suspend particles
• Can reduce greasy after-feel
• Can create everything from fluid gels to highly structured systems

Neither is automatically better.

They simply give you different formulation possibilities.

Oilkemia™ 5S CC vs Oil-Based Gelling Agents

Oil gelling is an entire area of formulation science.

Different oil gellants can produce very different textures.

Some create:

hard wax structures

Others create:

elastic gels

Others produce:

silky translucent networks

Oilkemia™ 5S CC is particularly useful when your objective is:

clarity + suspension + controlled flow + elegant sensory.

This is why it is particularly attractive for premium skincare and colour cosmetic concepts.

Can Oilkemia™ 5S CC Reduce Greasiness?

It does not remove oil from your formula.

Instead, changing the rheology and sensory behaviour of an oil system can change how that oil is perceived during application.

Lubrizol specifically reports that Oilkemia™ 5S CC can help reduce greasy after-feel in anhydrous and emulsion systems.

This is particularly useful for:

• Facial oil gels
• Sunscreen formulas
• Cleansing oils
• Body oils
• Oil-rich creams
• Colour cosmetics

where high oil content is useful but excessive greasiness is undesirable.

Can Oilkemia™ 5S CC Be Used in Emulsions?

Yes.

Although it is primarily an oil-phase rheology modifier, it can also be used within the oil phase of emulsion systems.

This can help improve:

• Oil-phase structure
• Stability
• Sensory profile
• Flow
• Pigment distribution
• Suspension

Lubrizol also reports that the polymer may allow formulators to reduce the amount of other emulsifiers or structural ingredients required in some systems.

It does not automatically replace your emulsifier.

The complete emulsion still needs to be properly designed and stability tested.

Ingredients You Could Pair With Oilkemia™ 5S CC

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Excellent for creating unusual Vitamin C oil gels and anhydrous antioxidant treatments.

Bakuchiol

Ideal for transparent night serums and oil gels.

Squalane

Provides elegant emollience and can be part of sophisticated lightweight oil systems.

Isoamyl Laurate

Useful for reducing heaviness and creating a more modern sensory profile.

Jojoba Oil

Excellent for botanical oil-gel concepts.

Bisabolol

Useful in calming cleansing balms and facial oils.

Tocopherol

Easy to incorporate into antioxidant oil-phase formulations.

Oil-Soluble Pigments & Pearls

Oilkemia's suspension capability makes it particularly interesting for shimmer, colour and visual-effect products.

Is Oilkemia™ 5S CC Suitable for Beginners?

We would describe Oilkemia™ 5S CC as an intermediate formulation ingredient.

It is not particularly difficult to use, but it teaches something important:

texture is part of formulation science.

You should be comfortable with:

• Accurate weighing
• Heating oil phases
• Understanding ingredient solubility
• Controlled cooling
• Evaluating viscosity
• Stability testing

If you have already made simple facial oils and balms and are wondering:

“What can I create next?”

Oilkemia™ 5S CC is an excellent ingredient to explore.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Oilkemia™ 5S CC Polymer?

Oilkemia™ 5S CC Polymer is an oil-soluble cosmetic rheology modifier, thickener, suspending agent and sensory modifier manufactured by Lubrizol.

It is used to transform oils into structured gels, balms, sticks and other sophisticated cosmetic textures.

What is the INCI Name of Oilkemia™ 5S CC?

The full INCI is:

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Is Oilkemia™ 5S CC a Wax?

Not technically.

Although it may be described informally as a crystal-clear wax or oil-gelling ingredient, it is more accurately described as a polymeric oil-soluble rheology modifier.

It can perform some jobs that cosmetic waxes perform while producing very different textures.

What Percentage of Oilkemia™ 5S CC Should I Use?

Lubrizol recommends an average use level of approximately:

1–6% as supplied

The ideal amount depends on the oils being used and the texture you are trying to create.

Is Oilkemia™ 5S CC Oil Soluble?

Yes.

It is designed specifically for structuring oils and oil mixtures.

Can Oilkemia™ 5S CC Make a Clear Oil Gel?

Yes.

Excellent clarity is one of the key advantages of the polymer.

The final clarity depends on the other ingredients in the formulation.

Can I Use Oilkemia™ 5S CC in a Cleansing Balm?

Yes.

This is one of its most interesting skincare applications.

It can be used to create transparent or translucent cleansing gels and crystal-clear balm concepts.

Can I Use Oilkemia™ 5S CC in a Facial Oil?

Yes.

It can transform a runny facial oil into a more controlled oil serum or oil gel.

Can I Use Oilkemia™ 5S CC With THDC?

Yes.

Oil-soluble Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate can be incorporated into appropriately designed Oilkemia™ oil systems.

This can create very interesting Vitamin C oil-gel or oil-jelly formulations.

Can I Use Oilkemia™ 5S CC With Bakuchiol?

Yes.

Bakuchiol is oil soluble and is particularly interesting in transparent anhydrous gel formulations.

Always conduct stability testing on the complete formulation.

Can Oilkemia™ 5S CC Suspend Shimmer or Pigments?

Yes.

Suspension is one of the key functions Lubrizol highlights for this polymer.

Its structured rheology can help keep particles distributed throughout a formulation rather than allowing them to settle rapidly.

Does Oilkemia™ 5S CC Replace an Emulsifier?

No.

It is primarily an oil-phase rheology modifier.

If your product contains both significant oil and water phases, you still need an appropriate emulsification system unless your particular formulation technology provides otherwise.

Is Oilkemia™ 5S CC Ethylene Oxide Free?

Yes.

Lubrizol lists Oilkemia™ 5S CC Polymer as ethylene oxide-free.

Storage & Handling

Store Oilkemia™ 5S CC Polymer:

• Tightly sealed
• In a cool, dry location
• Protected from contamination
• Protected from unnecessary prolonged exposure to extreme heat

Use clean, dry equipment when dispensing.

Always follow the current SDS and technical documentation for professional handling requirements.

Important Formulation Information

Oilkemia™ 5S CC Polymer supplied by JustGlow is a cosmetic raw material for formulation purposes.

It is not a finished cosmetic product and should not be applied directly to the skin as supplied.

The recommended 1–6% use level refers to the finished cosmetic formulation.

Formulators producing products commercially are responsible for appropriate:

stability testing • compatibility testing • preservation assessment where applicable • packaging testing • cosmetic safety assessment • regulatory compliance

before placing a finished cosmetic product on the market.

Why Formulate With Oilkemia™ 5S CC?

Anyone can mix oils together.

Formulation becomes much more interesting when you learn how to control what those oils become.

A runny oil can become a serum.

A serum can become a jelly.

A jelly can become a balm.

A balm can become a stick.

Shimmer can float instead of sinking.

A cleansing oil can become a crystal-clear gel.

A Vitamin C facial oil can become something your customer has never seen before.

That is what Oilkemia™ 5S CC gives you:

control over texture.

If you are serious about cosmetic formulation, rheology is one of the skills that separates simply mixing ingredients from actually designing products.

Oilkemia™ 5S CC is a very exciting place to start.

For cosmetic formulation use only.