High-performance polymeric emulsifier for creating lightweight, elegant oil-in-water emulsions with surprisingly small amounts of emulsifier.

Pemulen™ EZ-4U Polymer is a modern polymeric oil-in-water emulsifier and rheology modifier designed for cosmetic formulators who want to create sophisticated creams, lotions, gel-creams and emulsion serums without relying entirely on traditional waxy emulsifying systems.

Used at just 0.05–0.4%, Pemulen™ EZ-4U can stabilise substantial oil phases while helping create formulations with a light, fresh and elegant skin feel.

It is particularly interesting for formulators working with:

• Facial moisturisers
• Gel-creams
• Lightweight lotions
• Emulsion serums
• Botanical oils
• Cosmetic esters
• Oil-soluble vitamins
• Oil-soluble antioxidants
• High-oil emulsions
• Cold-process skincare

Lubrizol describes Pemulen™ EZ-4U as an easy-to-disperse polymeric emulsifier suitable for either cold or hot processing, with the ability to emulsify oil phases of up to approximately 50% by weight, depending on the complete formulation.

What is Pemulen™ EZ-4U and How is it Used in Cosmetics?

Pemulen™ EZ-4U is a hydrophobically modified crosslinked acrylic polymer used primarily to create and stabilise oil-in-water emulsions.

Its INCI name is:

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Unlike a traditional emulsifying wax, Pemulen™ EZ-4U is used at a very low percentage.

Part of the polymer associates with the oil droplets while the larger water-loving portion expands within the aqueous phase.

This helps create a polymer network around the dispersed oil droplets and keeps them separated within the water phase.

In simple terms:

Oil droplets + polymer network + water = a lightweight, stable oil-in-water emulsion.

This unusual emulsification mechanism is why such a small quantity of Pemulen can perform a surprisingly large job.

Pemulen™ EZ-4U at a Glance

Trade Name: Pemulen™ EZ-4U Polymer

INCI: Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Appearance: White powder

Function: Polymeric emulsifier / emulsion stabiliser / rheology modifier

Emulsion Type: Oil-in-water (O/W)

Recommended Use Level: 0.05–0.4%

Oil Phase Capability: Up to approximately 50% oil by weight, formulation dependent

Processing: Suitable for cold or hot processing

Suitable For: Creams, lotions, gel-creams, fluid emulsions and emulsion serums

Formulation Level: Intermediate

Why Do Formulators Use Pemulen™ EZ-4U?

Pemulen™ EZ-4U is particularly useful when you want the benefits of an oil-containing skincare product without automatically creating a rich or waxy cream.

Traditional emulsifying waxes can contribute significant structure and body to an emulsion.

Sometimes that is exactly what you want.

But sometimes you want:

more oil without more heaviness.

Pemulen™ EZ-4U gives formulators another option.

Very Low Use Level

One of the most remarkable features of Pemulen™ EZ-4U is how little is required.

The manufacturer recommends approximately:

0.05–0.4%

For a 100 g formulation, that means:

0.05% = 0.05 g

0.10% = 0.10 g

0.20% = 0.20 g

0.30% = 0.30 g

0.40% = 0.40 g

Because the amounts are so small, accurate weighing is extremely important.

For small formulation batches, we recommend using a precision scale capable of reliably measuring at least 0.01 g.

High Oil-Phase Potential

Pemulen™ EZ-4U is particularly interesting when you want to incorporate a meaningful oil phase into an otherwise lightweight product.

Lubrizol states that the polymer can emulsify oil phases of up to approximately:

50% by weight

The practical amount will depend on the particular oils, active ingredients, electrolytes, pH, processing method and overall formulation.

This does not mean every formula containing 50% oil will automatically be stable.

Formulation development and stability testing are still essential.

What Oils Can You Formulate With?

Pemulen™ EZ-4U can be explored with many different cosmetic oils, emollients and esters.

For example:

• Squalane
• Hemisqualane
• Jojoba Oil
• Rosehip Oil
• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
• Isoamyl Laurate
• Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
• Octyldodecanol
• Lightweight cosmetic esters
• Botanical carrier oils

It can also be especially useful when your oil phase contains oil-soluble cosmetic actives.

Examples might include:

• Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
• Bakuchiol
• Tocopherol
• Bisabolol
• Oil-soluble antioxidants
• Oil-soluble botanical extracts

Always check the formulation requirements of the individual active ingredient.

How Does Pemulen™ EZ-4U Work?

Imagine tiny oil droplets dispersed throughout water.

Without the right stabilisation system, those droplets naturally want to come back together.

Eventually, the emulsion may separate.

Pemulen™ EZ-4U has both water-loving and oil-associated portions within its polymer structure.

The hydrophobic portion associates around the oil-water interface while the hydrated polymer structure builds a network through the surrounding water phase.

This helps keep the oil droplets separated.

The result can be a stable oil-in-water emulsion using a surprisingly small amount of polymer.

How to Use Pemulen™ EZ-4U in Cosmetic Formulations

Pemulen™ EZ-4U is easy to use once you understand one important principle:

Disperse the polymer properly before expecting it to build its full structure.

Step 1 – Prepare Your Water Phase

Begin with your water phase.

Add Pemulen™ EZ-4U gradually while mixing rather than pouring the entire amount into one spot.

Allow it to disperse fully.

Good initial dispersion helps avoid:

• Lumps
• Fish-eyes
• Uneven hydration
• Poor viscosity development

Step 2 – Prepare Your Oil Phase

Combine your selected oil-phase ingredients.

For example:

Squalane + Isoamyl Laurate + Bakuchiol

or

Hemisqualane + THDC + Jojoba Oil

or

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride + Rosehip Oil + Tocopherol

Heat the oil phase only if required by the other ingredients in your formulation.

One of the advantages of Pemulen™ EZ-4U is that it can be used in both cold- and hot-process systems.

Step 3 – Introduce the Oil Phase

Gradually introduce the oil phase while mixing sufficiently to create good oil-droplet dispersion.

The polymer helps stabilise the resulting oil-in-water emulsion.

Your processing method will depend on:

• Oil-phase size
• Viscosity
• Batch size
• Mixer type
• Other ingredients
• Desired final texture

Step 4 – Neutralise and Adjust the Formula

Pemulen™ EZ-4U is an acrylic polymer system, so final viscosity and structure are influenced by the neutralisation and final pH of the formulation.

Use an appropriate cosmetic neutralising system for your formula and adjust gradually.

Do not simply add a fixed amount of neutraliser to every formulation.

The quantity required depends on the complete composition of your product.

Always measure the final pH rather than relying only on a theoretical calculation.

Step 5 – Add Sensitive Ingredients

Heat-sensitive actives, fragrances, preservatives and other cool-down ingredients can then be incorporated according to their individual requirements.

Step 6 – Evaluate the Finished Formula

Always check:

• pH
• Viscosity
• Appearance
• Oil separation
• Skin feel
• Centrifuge stability where available
• Freeze-thaw stability
• Elevated-temperature stability
• Preservative compatibility
• Packaging compatibility

A freshly prepared cream looking beautiful on Day 1 does not automatically mean it will remain stable for six or twelve months.

Formulator's Tip – Don't Use More Pemulen Just Because You Want a Thicker Cream

This is an important distinction.

Pemulen™ EZ-4U is performing an emulsification and rheology role.

If your emulsion is stable but you simply want more body, increasing the polymer is not always the best solution.

You may instead choose to build additional texture with a compatible:

• Rheology modifier
• Fatty alcohol
• Structuring agent
• Gum
• Polymer
• Emollient system

This gives you much greater control over:

emulsion stability

and

finished texture

as two separate formulation decisions.

Why is Pemulen™ EZ-4U Different From Traditional Emulsifying Wax?

Traditional emulsifying waxes and Pemulen™ EZ-4U can both create oil-in-water emulsions, but they work differently and create different sensory possibilities.

Traditional Emulsifying Wax

Often used at several percent.

Can contribute significant structure to a cream.

Excellent for traditional creams and lotions.

May produce a richer or more substantial skin feel.

Often contributes directly to the body of the finished product.

Pemulen™ EZ-4U

Used at only 0.05–0.4%.

Functions through polymeric emulsification and stabilisation.

Can create extremely lightweight emulsions.

Particularly useful for gel-creams and fluid textures.

Suitable for cold processing.

Can handle relatively large oil phases.

Neither system is automatically better.

The interesting question for the formulator is:

What texture are you trying to create?

Cold-Process Formulation

Pemulen™ EZ-4U is particularly useful when developing products that you do not want to heat unnecessarily.

Cold processing can be valuable when working with:

• Delicate botanical oils
• Heat-sensitive extracts
• Certain peptides
• Bakuchiol
• Vitamins
• Antioxidants
• Fragrance materials
• Temperature-sensitive cosmetic actives

Cold processing can also reduce:

• Manufacturing time
• Energy use
• Heating and cooling stages

However, the fact that Pemulen itself can be cold processed does not mean that every other ingredient in your formula can be.

Always check the processing requirements of the complete formulation.

What Can You Make With Pemulen™ EZ-4U?

Lightweight Facial Gel-Cream

Create a modern moisturiser containing water, humectants and lightweight emollients such as squalane or isoamyl laurate.

Ideal when you want moisturisation without a traditional rich cream feel.

Vitamin C Gel-Cream

Pemulen™ EZ-4U can be particularly interesting for emulsions containing an oil-soluble Vitamin C derivative such as Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC).

This allows you to formulate an oil-soluble active into an elegant water-containing skincare product.

Bakuchiol Facial Emulsion

Bakuchiol is oil soluble.

Instead of creating another completely anhydrous facial oil, you can incorporate Bakuchiol into the oil phase of a lightweight moisturising emulsion.

Botanical Facial Lotion

Create a predominantly water-based moisturiser containing botanical oils such as:

Jojoba • Rosehip • Pomegranate • Oat • Grapeseed

while retaining a lighter sensory profile.

Emulsion Serum

Not every serum needs to be completely water based.

A thin emulsion serum can combine:

water-soluble ingredients + oil-soluble ingredients

within one product.

This can open up much more sophisticated active combinations.

Lightweight Body Lotion

Pemulen™ EZ-4U can also be used to create light, fast-spreading body emulsions without relying exclusively on a conventional emulsifying wax system.

Ingredients That Can Be Used Alongside Pemulen™ EZ-4U

Pemulen™ EZ-4U can be useful in formulations containing both water- and oil-soluble cosmetic ingredients.

Potential formulation partners include:

Niacinamide

A versatile water-soluble active for moisturising and barrier-focused skincare.

Ectoine

A water-soluble active that fits particularly well into modern hydration and barrier-support formulas.

Alpha Arbutin

Useful in aqueous brightening formulations where the complete pH and stability requirements have been considered.

Tranexamic Acid

Can be incorporated into carefully designed water phases for uneven-tone formulation concepts.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

An oil-soluble Vitamin C derivative that can be incorporated through the oil phase.

Bakuchiol

Oil-soluble active suitable for lightweight facial emulsions.

Bisabolol

Oil-soluble soothing ingredient that fits easily into the oil phase.

Squalane & Lightweight Esters

Useful for creating very elegant sensory profiles without making the formula feel excessively oily.

Always assess the requirements of the complete formulation rather than assuming that ingredients are automatically compatible simply because they can individually be used in emulsions.

Is Pemulen™ EZ-4U Suitable for Beginners?

We would describe Pemulen™ EZ-4U as an intermediate formulation ingredient.

It is not particularly difficult to use, but it teaches several important formulation skills.

You should be comfortable with:

• Accurate weighing
• Polymer dispersion
• Emulsion processing
• pH measurement
• Neutralisation
• Preservative selection
• Stability testing

If you are moving beyond ready-made emulsifying waxes and want to learn how modern polymeric emulsions work, Pemulen™ EZ-4U is a very interesting next step.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Pemulen™ EZ-4U?

Pemulen™ EZ-4U is a polymeric oil-in-water emulsifier and rheology modifier used to create creams, lotions, gel-creams and emulsion serums.

Its INCI is:

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

What is the Recommended Use Level of Pemulen™ EZ-4U?

Lubrizol recommends approximately:

0.05–0.4%

Only a very small amount is normally required.

Is Pemulen™ EZ-4U an Emulsifier or a Thickener?

It performs both emulsification/stabilisation and rheology functions.

It helps stabilise dispersed oil droplets while also contributing structure to the continuous aqueous phase.

Is Pemulen™ EZ-4U Water Soluble?

Pemulen™ EZ-4U is designed to be dispersed and hydrated in the aqueous phase rather than treated like a conventional small-molecule water-soluble ingredient.

Proper dispersion and subsequent pH/neutralisation adjustment are important to developing the polymer network.

Does Pemulen™ EZ-4U Need Neutralising?

The performance and viscosity of this type of acrylic polymer system are affected by neutralisation and final formulation pH.

An appropriate cosmetic neutraliser can be used according to the design of the formula.

Always adjust gradually and measure the final pH rather than relying on a fixed neutraliser percentage.

Can Pemulen™ EZ-4U Be Cold Processed?

Yes.

Lubrizol states that Pemulen™ EZ-4U is suitable for both cold and hot processing.

This makes it particularly interesting for modern low-energy processing and formulas containing heat-sensitive ingredients.

How Much Oil Can Pemulen™ EZ-4U Emulsify?

The manufacturer states that Pemulen™ EZ-4U can emulsify oil phases of up to approximately:

50% by weight

The actual amount achievable depends on the entire formulation and must be confirmed through stability testing.

Can Pemulen™ EZ-4U Make a Gel-Cream?

Yes.

Gel-creams are one of the most interesting applications for this type of polymeric emulsifier because it allows oils to be incorporated into a product that still has a fresh, lightweight gel-like sensory profile.

Can I Use Pemulen™ EZ-4U for a Facial Serum?

Yes.

It can be used to create fluid emulsion serums containing both an aqueous phase and a small oil phase.

The final viscosity will depend on polymer concentration, neutralisation, oil level and the other ingredients in the formulation.

Can I Use Pemulen™ EZ-4U With THDC?

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is oil soluble and can potentially be incorporated into the oil phase of a Pemulen™ EZ-4U emulsion.

The complete formula still requires appropriate stability, compatibility and preservation testing.

Can I Use Pemulen™ EZ-4U With Bakuchiol?

Yes.

Bakuchiol can be incorporated through the oil phase of a properly designed emulsion, allowing you to create products such as lightweight Bakuchiol gel-creams or facial lotions.

Is Pemulen™ EZ-4U Better Than Emulsifying Wax?

Not necessarily.

They are different formulation tools.

Choose a traditional emulsifying wax when you want the structure and sensory profile it provides.

Choose Pemulen™ EZ-4U when you want to explore:

• Very low emulsifier levels
• Lightweight textures
• Gel-creams
• Fluid emulsions
• Cold processing
• High-oil polymeric emulsions

Storage & Handling

Store Pemulen™ EZ-4U:

• Tightly sealed
• In a cool, dry place
• Protected from moisture
• Protected from contamination

Avoid generating unnecessary airborne powder during handling.

Use clean, dry formulation equipment and close the packaging promptly after use.

Because very small amounts are required, accurate weighing is particularly important.

Important Formulation Information

Pemulen™ EZ-4U supplied by JustGlow is a cosmetic raw material for formulation purposes.

It is not a finished cosmetic product and should not be applied directly to the skin as supplied.

The recommended use level refers to the percentage in the finished cosmetic formulation.

Formulators producing products for commercial sale are responsible for ensuring that the finished formulation complies with applicable cosmetic legislation and undergoes suitable:

stability testing • microbiological assessment • packaging compatibility testing • cosmetic safety assessment

before sale.

Why Formulate With Pemulen™ EZ-4U?

Pemulen™ EZ-4U gives formulators a completely different way to approach emulsions.

Instead of automatically asking:

“How much emulsifying wax do I need?”

you can start asking:

“What do I actually want this product to feel like?”

A fresh serum.

A featherlight lotion.

A silky gel-cream.

A botanical moisturiser.

A Vitamin C emulsion.

A sophisticated formula containing both water-soluble and oil-soluble actives.

At only 0.05–0.4%, Pemulen™ EZ-4U may occupy a tiny part of your ingredient list.

But it can completely change the architecture of your formula.

For cosmetic formulation use only.