Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC) – Oil-Soluble Vitamin C

INCI Name: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Ingredient Type: Oil-Soluble Vitamin C Derivative
Solubility: Oil Soluble
Suitable For: Serums, facial oils, creams, balms and advanced skincare formulations

What is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC)?

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, commonly known as THDC, is a premium oil-soluble derivative of Vitamin C widely used in advanced cosmetic formulations for its antioxidant, brightening and skin-conditioning properties.

Unlike traditional L-Ascorbic Acid, which is water soluble and can be challenging to stabilise, THDC is designed for incorporation into the oil phase of cosmetic formulations. Its excellent oil solubility makes it particularly suitable for anhydrous facial oils, oil serums, emulsions, creams and other sophisticated skincare products.

THDC is valued by cosmetic formulators looking to incorporate the benefits associated with Vitamin C while creating elegant, stable and easy-to-use oil-based formulations.

Why Use THDC in Skincare?

THDC is a versatile active ingredient particularly suited to formulations targeting dullness, uneven skin tone, visible signs of ageing and environmental oxidative stress.

Key Benefits

Brightening & Uneven Skin Tone
THDC is commonly incorporated into brightening formulations designed to improve the appearance of dull, uneven-looking skin and promote a more luminous complexion.

Antioxidant Protection
As a Vitamin C derivative, THDC provides antioxidant activity that can help protect the skin from oxidative stress caused by environmental factors.

Supports Collagen-Focused Skincare
Vitamin C is well known for its role in collagen-related skin processes, making THDC particularly attractive for formulations targeting the visible signs of ageing, loss of firmness and fine lines.

Oil-Soluble & Formulator Friendly
THDC dissolves readily in suitable cosmetic oils and emollients, making it significantly easier to incorporate into oil-based products than traditional water-soluble Vitamin C.

Suitable for Anhydrous Formulations
Because it is oil soluble, THDC is an excellent choice for facial oils, oil serums, balms and other water-free formulations where L-Ascorbic Acid would normally be difficult to use effectively.

Excellent Ingredient Pairing Potential
THDC can be incorporated alongside complementary oil-soluble actives and antioxidants to create sophisticated multi-active skincare formulations.

THDC vs Traditional Vitamin C

Traditional L-Ascorbic Acid is water soluble and generally requires carefully controlled formulation conditions, including low pH and protection against oxidation.

THDC offers formulators a different approach.

Because it is oil soluble, it can be incorporated directly into suitable oil phases without requiring the highly acidic environment associated with L-Ascorbic Acid formulations.

This makes THDC particularly useful when developing:

• Facial oils
• Oil-based Vitamin C serums
• Anti-ageing serums
• Brightening treatments
• Night treatments
• Facial balms
• Emulsion-based creams and lotions

How to Formulate with THDC

THDC should be incorporated into the oil phase of a cosmetic formulation.

It can be blended with suitable cosmetic oils, esters and emollients to produce anything from lightweight facial oils to more complex emulsions.

For heat-sensitive formulations, it is generally preferable to minimise unnecessary prolonged exposure to high temperatures and incorporate the ingredient under controlled formulation conditions.

Typical Use Level

1–10% is suitable for many cosmetic formulations.

Higher concentrations may also be used depending on the formulation concept, supplier specifications and intended finished-product application.

Always assess compatibility, stability and finished-product safety when developing a commercial cosmetic formulation.

Formulation Ideas

THDC is particularly well suited to:

Brightening Oil Serum
Combine THDC with lightweight cosmetic emollients for an elegant daily facial oil targeting dull and uneven-looking skin.

Antioxidant Vitamin C Serum
Pair THDC with complementary antioxidants to create a sophisticated antioxidant skincare treatment.

THDC + Bakuchiol Serum
A useful combination for formulations targeting both uneven skin tone and visible signs of ageing.

THDC + Acetyl Zingerone
An advanced antioxidant combination for formulations focused on environmental stress, oxidative damage and skin ageing.

Brightening Cream or Emulsion
Incorporate THDC into the oil phase of creams designed for dullness, pigmentation concerns and uneven-looking skin tone.

Who Is THDC Suitable For?

THDC can be particularly useful in formulations designed for:

• Dull or tired-looking skin
• Uneven skin tone
• Hyperpigmentation-focused skincare
• Mature skin
• Fine lines and visible signs of ageing
• Antioxidant skincare
• Daily environmental protection formulations

Technical Information

Product Name: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Abbreviation: THDC
INCI: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Ingredient Category: Vitamin C Derivative / Antioxidant / Skin Conditioning Active
Solubility: Oil Soluble
Form: Oil-soluble cosmetic active
Recommended Use: Facial oils, serums, creams, emulsions and balms
Typical Use Level: 1–10%, depending on formulation requirements

Storage

Store tightly closed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, excessive heat and sources of oxidation.

Good storage and manufacturing practices help maintain the quality of Vitamin C derivatives during their shelf life.

Formulation Note

THDC is an ingredient for cosmetic formulation and is not intended to be applied to the skin undiluted.

Commercial finished products should undergo appropriate stability, compatibility, microbiological and safety assessment before being placed on the market.

Why Choose THDC?

For formulators who want the benefits associated with Vitamin C without the formulation challenges of traditional L-Ascorbic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate offers an elegant oil-soluble alternative.

Its combination of antioxidant activity, brightening potential, formulation versatility and compatibility with modern oil-based skincare makes THDC an excellent ingredient for creating premium Vitamin C serums, facial oils, brightening treatments and anti-ageing formulations.

Documents:

SDS

COA