INCI Name: Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
Also known as: SkinWhite™ MSH, Original Seppic White
1. What is Sepiwhite™ MSH and How is it Used in Cosmetics?
Sepiwhite™ MSH is a cosmetic-grade brightening ingredient used to help improve the appearance of uneven skin tone, dullness, and age-related pigmentation. Derived from natural undecylenic acid and phenylalanine, it supports skin luminosity without the need for harsh agents.
Thanks to its unique molecular structure, Sepiwhite™ MSH works by targeting key pathways involved in melanin production, making it suitable for all skin types and tones. It’s a popular choice among formulators creating products designed to promote a radiant, more even-looking complexion.
2. Sepiwhite™ MSH Technical Details and Characteristics
| Property | Description |
|---|---|
| INCI Name | Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine |
| Appearance | White powder |
| Solubility | Oil-soluble at ~60°C; water-soluble at pH 7 when heated up to 60°C |
| Usage Rate | 0.2% – 2% |
| pH Stability | Stable around pH 7 |
| Function | Brightening, skin tone evening, radiance enhancing |
| Key Properties | Amphiphilic structure, bio-affinity with skin, effective at low concentration |
| Certifications | COSMOS, ECOCERT, NATRUE approved; China compliant |
| Compatibility | Compatible with AHAs, BHAs, Vitamin C derivatives, Niacinamide, Kojic Acid |
3. How to Incorporate Sepiwhite™ MSH into Formulations
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Oil-Based Formulations: Add to the oil phase and heat to ~60°C until fully dissolved.
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Water-Based Formulations: Adjust water phase to pH 7, then heat to ~60°C for proper solubility.
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Typical Usage Rate: 0.2–2%, depending on formulation goals.
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Best Practices: Add during active phase after emulsification and before cool-down. Combine with other brightening actives like Alpha Arbutin or Ascorbyl Glucoside for enhanced performance.
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Important Note: Ensure pH of final product remains compatible to maintain ingredient stability and efficacy.
4. Where Sepiwhite™ MSH is Found in Skincare Products
Sepiwhite™ MSH is widely used in:
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Brightening facial serums and night creams
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Complexion-evening emulsions, lotions, and spot correctors
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BB and CC creams, lightening powders, and tone-balancing bases
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Anti-aging skincare routines targeting dullness and discolouration
Its versatility and stability make it ideal for use in both water-based and oil-based cosmetic formulations aimed at improving skin luminosity and tone.