Sepiwhite MSH – Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine Cosmetic Ingredient Formulation Guide
Sepiwhite™ MSH is a professional cosmetic tone-care ingredient with the INCI name Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine. It is a lipoamino-acid technology ingredient supplied as a white powder for developing creams, lotions, emulsions, serums and anhydrous cosmetic formulas designed for a more even-looking skin tone.
This page is an extensive Sepiwhite MSH formulation guide for cosmetic formulators. It covers what Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is, why formulators use it, oil-phase and aqueous incorporation, use levels, temperature, pH, DMI premixes, niacinamide pairing, emulsions, anhydrous products, solubility troubleshooting, stability testing and UK-safe cosmetic wording.
Raw-material notice: Sepiwhite MSH is a cosmetic ingredient, not a finished skincare product. Do not apply the powder neat, use it directly on skin or mix it into a finished product in the hand. To purchase the ingredient, visit the Sepiwhite MSH – Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine product page.
Quick answer: what is Sepiwhite MSH?
Sepiwhite™ MSH is the trade name associated with Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, a lipophilic lipoamino-acid cosmetic ingredient. It is best known in formulation for tone-care and brightening concepts, particularly when combined with other well-characterised cosmetic ingredients such as niacinamide.
Sepiwhite MSH is normally incorporated through a compatible oil or solvent system. It can be screened in oil-in-water emulsions, anhydrous oils and balms, and selected water-based systems when the pH, temperature and solvent or solubiliser system support dissolution. It should not be assumed to dissolve in plain water at every pH or remain dissolved when the formula cools.
Why Sepiwhite MSH is special
- Lipoamino-acid technology: combines a lipophilic undecylenoyl chain with a phenylalanine-derived portion for a distinctive cosmetic active profile.
- Oil-compatible powder active: can be introduced through suitable esters, oils or solvent systems rather than relying only on a water-phase route.
- Flexible formulation options: useful in emulsions, creams, lotions, serums and anhydrous products when the carrier system is correctly designed.
- Low-use-level active: the supplier-facing maximum is commonly 2%, allowing it to be combined with other tone-care and skin-conditioning ingredients without dominating the formula.
- Strong pairing with niacinamide: a practical development combination for formulas designed to support a more even-looking skin tone.
- Temperature and pH awareness: the ingredient rewards careful control of dissolution, cooling and final pH rather than simple drop-in addition.
“Brightening”, “tone-care” and “even-looking skin tone” are cosmetic positioning terms. The finished-product manufacturer must substantiate the exact claims used on packaging, advertising and product listings.
At-a-glance technical profile
| Parameter | Formulation information |
|---|---|
| Trade name | Sepiwhite™ MSH |
| INCI name | Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine |
| CAS number | 175357-18-3 |
| Physical form | White powder |
| Functional class | Cosmetic tone-care and brightening active; lipoamino-acid technology ingredient |
| Typical practical screen | 0.5–2% of the finished formula |
| Supplier-facing maximum | 2% unless current grade-specific technical documentation states otherwise |
| Oil-phase route | Disperse or dissolve in a compatible oil, ester or solvent system; gentle heat may be required |
| Oil-phase temperature | Begin around 60°C; do not exceed current supplier guidance for the batch |
| Aqueous route | May be screened around pH 7 with warming, but dissolution and precipitation must be verified |
| Useful pH screen | Approximately pH 3.5–7.0 stability range; choose final pH for the complete formula |
| Cool-down addition | Add temperature-sensitive materials below 40°C where their documentation requires it |
Always formulate against the current grade-specific specification, Safety Data Sheet and batch-specific Certificate of Analysis. The raw powder, carrier system and finished formula should be assessed separately.
Recommended use levels
| Formulation objective | Starting level | Development note |
|---|---|---|
| Low-level compatibility screen | 0.5% | Useful for checking dissolution, colour, pH and sensory effects in a new base |
| Standard tone-care formula | 1% | A practical middle point for emulsions and serum development |
| Strong development screen | 1.5–2% | Check complete dissolution, final pH, precipitation and stability carefully |
| Maximum development level | 2% | Do not exceed the current supplier maximum without updated technical justification |
The live product listing gives a broader formulation guidance range of 0.2–2%, while the label-facing practical range is commonly 0.5–2%. For new formulas, begin at 0.5%, 1% and 2% as a controlled screen. Using more powder is not automatically better: undissolved material, crystallisation and instability can make a higher level perform worse.
How Sepiwhite MSH behaves in a formula
Sepiwhite MSH is a solid powder with limited direct water compatibility under many conditions. Its behaviour changes with the carrier, pH, temperature and solvent environment. In an oil-based system it is usually treated as a heat-assisted oil-phase active. In a water-containing system it may be handled through a solvent or a pH-controlled aqueous route, but the formulator must verify that the active remains dissolved after cooling and throughout storage.
This makes Sepiwhite MSH different from a freely water-soluble powder such as some salts or humectants. It should be treated as a material that needs a planned incorporation strategy:
- Choose the route: oil phase, solvent premix or pH-controlled aqueous phase.
- Confirm the carrier can dissolve or adequately disperse the intended amount.
- Use controlled temperature rather than excessive heat.
- Check the final pH after all major ingredients are present.
- Inspect the cooled formula for crystals, haze, sediment or re-precipitation.
Oil-phase incorporation
Oil-phase incorporation is the most straightforward route for many creams, lotions, oil serums and balms. Compatible carriers to screen can include selected cosmetic esters such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate and Isosorbide Dicaprylate, as well as the wider oil blend where appropriate.
The exact carrier matters. Do not assume that every oil or ester dissolves 2% Sepiwhite MSH equally well. Make a small carrier test before committing the active to a full emulsion.
Oil-phase method
- Weigh Sepiwhite MSH and the selected carrier into a clean, dry vessel.
- Begin gentle mixing and heat gradually toward approximately 60°C.
- Continue mixing until the powder has dissolved or the intended dispersion is uniform.
- Do not hold at elevated temperature longer than necessary.
- Add the active-containing oil blend to the main oil phase or emulsify it into the aqueous phase according to the formula.
- Cool the batch under controlled mixing.
- Add heat-sensitive ingredients below their specified temperature, commonly below 40°C.
- Inspect the finished product after cooling and again after 24–48 hours.
Some label guidance permits a 60–70°C dissolution window, while conservative development work commonly targets about 60°C. Follow the current technical documentation for the specific material you are using and avoid unnecessary exposure above that guidance.
Aqueous and pH-controlled incorporation
Sepiwhite MSH can also be evaluated in a water-containing system when the pH and solvent environment support dissolution. Technical guidance commonly identifies a water-soluble route around pH 7 with warming, with a broader pH stability window around 3.5–7.0. This is not a reason to add the raw powder to cold water and assume success.
Aqueous-route development sequence
- Prepare a small water-and-solvent screening vessel before making the full batch.
- Adjust or buffer the test system toward the intended pH, often near pH 7 for the dissolution screen.
- Add Sepiwhite MSH gradually with mixing and gentle warming.
- Observe whether the solution is clear, translucent or visibly suspended.
- Cool the test sample to room temperature and then to the intended low-temperature condition.
- Check again for precipitation or crystal formation.
- Only transfer the method to the full formula when the carrier and pH remain suitable.
For a final leave-on product, the best pH is determined by the complete formula, not the active alone. The niacinamide level, preservative system, polymer, emulsifier and other actives all need to remain within their own compatible ranges.
DMI premix method
A practical method for professional development is a 20% Sepiwhite MSH / 80% Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) premix. This makes the powder easier to weigh and distribute in a larger batch, but the premix must still be checked for clarity, precipitation and compatibility with the final formula.
Calculation for a 100 g batch
| Target in finished formula | 20% Sepiwhite/DMI premix to add | Sepiwhite delivered | DMI delivered |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0.5% Sepiwhite MSH | 2.5 g | 0.5 g | 2.0 g |
| 1.0% Sepiwhite MSH | 5.0 g | 1.0 g | 4.0 g |
| 2.0% Sepiwhite MSH | 10.0 g | 2.0 g | 8.0 g |
For example, adding 10% of the 20% premix to a 100 g formula delivers 2% Sepiwhite MSH and 8% DMI. That 8% DMI must be included in the formula calculation; it is not “free” carrier. Reduce water or another solvent accordingly so the batch still totals 100%.
Premix method
- Accurately weigh 20 parts Sepiwhite MSH and 80 parts DMI.
- Mix until the premix is uniform and the active is adequately dissolved or dispersed.
- Warm gently only as required by the supplier guidance and the DMI system.
- Allow the premix to cool and inspect it for crystals or haze.
- Add the calculated premix to the appropriate phase of the main formula.
- Recheck the final pH, viscosity, colour and stability after the full formula has equilibrated.
DMI changes the sensory profile and can affect viscosity, active delivery and preservative performance. Always compare the DMI-containing formula with a control when optimising the product.
Sepiwhite MSH and niacinamide
Sepiwhite MSH is often paired with niacinamide in cosmetic tone-care formulas. The ingredients occupy different formulation roles: Sepiwhite MSH is a lipophilic powder active usually introduced through an oil or solvent system, while niacinamide is water soluble and normally belongs in the aqueous phase.
To formulate the pairing well:
- Pre-dissolve or pre-disperse Sepiwhite MSH before combining phases.
- Dissolve niacinamide separately in the water phase.
- Choose a final pH compatible with both the active system and preservative.
- Avoid unnecessarily high heat after niacinamide and Sepiwhite MSH are present.
- Test the complete formula for colour, precipitation and long-term stability.
A practical development comparison might screen Sepiwhite MSH at 1–2% with niacinamide at the supplier-recommended level for the chosen product. The exact niacinamide percentage is a separate formulation decision and should not be increased simply because Sepiwhite MSH is present.
Using Sepiwhite MSH in emulsions
Sepiwhite MSH can be incorporated into creams, lotions and emulsion serums when the oil or solvent system is designed to carry it. It is not itself a complete emulsifier, so the finished product needs a suitable emulsifier or polymeric emulsifier for the total oil phase.
Emulsion method
- Prepare the carrier: dissolve or disperse Sepiwhite MSH in a compatible ester, oil or DMI-containing premix.
- Prepare the water phase: dissolve niacinamide, glycerin and other water-soluble materials in the aqueous phase according to their own instructions.
- Prepare the oil phase: combine the Sepiwhite-containing carrier with the remaining oils, emollients and oil-phase emulsifier materials.
- Heat only as required: bring the oil phase toward the selected dissolution or emulsification temperature, avoiding unnecessary high-temperature holding.
- Emulsify: combine the phases using a repeatable mixing and homogenisation process.
- Cool: continue controlled mixing and add heat-sensitive materials below 40°C where required.
- Adjust pH: confirm that the final pH suits Sepiwhite MSH, niacinamide, preservative and all other ingredients.
- Evaluate: inspect immediately, after cooling and after 24–48 hours for precipitation, graininess or separation.
For a Pemulen EZ-4U gel-cream, Sepiwhite MSH belongs in the oil or solvent phase, while Pemulen EZ-4U is dispersed and hydrated in the water phase. These materials should not be treated as if they occupy the same phase. See the Pemulen EZ-4U Polymer formulation guide for the polymer-specific process.
Using Sepiwhite MSH in anhydrous formulas
Anhydrous products can be an efficient way to screen Sepiwhite MSH because they remove the need to solve an aqueous solubility and preservation problem at the same time. Suitable formats may include facial oils, treatment oils, balms and oil gels.
Anhydrous oil method
- Combine Sepiwhite MSH with a compatible ester carrier.
- Heat gently toward approximately 60°C while mixing.
- Continue until the active is dissolved or the intended dispersion is uniform.
- Add the remaining liquid emollients and oil-soluble ingredients.
- Cool under mixing and inspect for re-crystallisation.
- Fill only after the product is uniform and has reached the validated filling temperature.
Anhydrous balm method
- Prepare the balm’s structural oil phase according to the wax or gelling-agent supplier guidance.
- Incorporate Sepiwhite MSH through a compatible ester or oil carrier.
- Keep the active-containing portion at the lowest temperature that achieves uniformity.
- Add heat-sensitive materials during cool-down.
- Pour and allow the balm to set fully before judging graininess, sweating, hardness or colour.
If using an oil-gelling material such as a dextrin palmitate system, follow that material’s activation temperature separately. Sepiwhite MSH does not require the same high temperature as every oil-gelling polymer or wax.
Formulation frameworks
The following are professional development frameworks rather than finished-product specifications. Percentages are by weight. Adjust the formula to the actual supplier guidance for every raw material.
Framework 1: Sepiwhite and niacinamide gel-cream
| Component | Starting range | Phase / role |
|---|---|---|
| Sepiwhite MSH | 1–2% | Oil or solvent phase; tone-care active |
| Niacinamide | Supplier-guided | Water phase; complementary tone-care active |
| DMI or compatible ester carrier | Supplier-guided | Solubility and delivery support |
| Light emollients | 5–15% | Oil phase and sensory design |
| Polymeric or conventional emulsifier | Supplier-guided | Emulsion structure |
| Glycerin | 2–5% | Water-phase humectant |
| Preservative | Supplier-guided | Microbiological protection |
| Purified water | q.s. to 100% | Continuous phase |
Target a final pH compatible with the complete active and preservative system, commonly within the broader Sepiwhite stability window of approximately pH 3.5–7.0. Check the actual formula rather than selecting pH from the active alone.
Framework 2: Sepiwhite emulsion serum with a DMI premix
| Component | Example development amount for 100 g | Note |
|---|---|---|
| 20% Sepiwhite / 80% DMI premix | 5–10 g | Delivers 1–2% Sepiwhite and 4–8% DMI |
| Niacinamide | Supplier-guided | Dissolve in the water phase |
| Glycerin | 2–4 g | Water-phase humectant |
| Oil phase | Supplier-guided | Use a compatible emulsion system |
| Preservative | Supplier-guided | Check pH and solvent compatibility |
| Purified water | q.s. to 100 g | Reduce water for all premix components |
At 10 g premix, the formula contains 2 g Sepiwhite MSH and 8 g DMI. This calculation must be reflected in the final formula, packaging information and technical records.
Framework 3: anhydrous Sepiwhite treatment oil
| Component | Starting range | Role |
|---|---|---|
| Sepiwhite MSH | 0.5–2% | Tone-care active |
| Hydra Synol DOI | 2–10% | Compatible ester carrier and sensory modifier |
| Squalane or hemisqualane | 20–60% | Light-to-medium emollient balance |
| Selected plant oils or esters | q.s. | Formula identity and sensorial design |
| Antioxidant | Supplier-guided | Support the stability strategy for susceptible oils |
Make a 0.5%, 1% and 2% active screen. Observe clarity after heating, cooling, room-temperature storage and cool storage before approving the highest level.
Framework 4: Sepiwhite balm
| Component | Starting range | Role |
|---|---|---|
| Sepiwhite MSH | 0.5–2% | Tone-care active |
| Compatible ester carrier | 5–15% | Support active dissolution or dispersion |
| Liquid oils | 40–70% | Primary oil phase |
| Oil-gelling or wax system | Supplier-guided | Firmness and set |
| Oil-soluble supporting ingredients | Supplier-guided | Product concept |
The active must remain uniformly distributed after the balm has set. Check for graininess, crystals, oil bleed and settling before filling larger quantities.
pH and temperature management
Sepiwhite MSH is more process-sensitive than a simple liquid emollient. Temperature and pH influence whether it dissolves, remains dissolved or precipitates during cooling.
| Stage | Practical control |
|---|---|
| Powder addition | Add slowly to the chosen carrier; avoid dry clumps |
| Oil-phase dissolution | Gently heat toward approximately 60°C; use only the temperature necessary for uniformity |
| Aqueous screening | Evaluate around pH 7 with warming if using the water-soluble route |
| Formula pH | Screen the complete system within approximately pH 3.5–7.0 and confirm the active, preservative and other actives remain compatible |
| Cool-down | Add heat-sensitive ingredients below 40°C where required |
| Post-cooling check | Inspect immediately and after 24–48 hours for crystals, haze or sediment |
Do not adjust a finished formula to pH 7 simply because an aqueous dissolution test was successful at that pH. The final pH must be selected for the complete product and its intended use.
What pairs well with Sepiwhite MSH?
Niacinamide
Niacinamide is the most useful complementary pairing for many Sepiwhite MSH tone-care concepts. Keep niacinamide in the water phase and Sepiwhite MSH in an appropriate oil or solvent system. Test the full formula for pH, colour, precipitation and sensory performance.
Hydra Synol® DOI
Hydra Synol DOI is an oil-soluble ester that can be screened as part of the carrier system for Sepiwhite MSH. It may contribute emolliency, slip and a less heavy after-feel. See the Hydra Synol DOI formulation guide for its own phase and stability guidance.
DMI
DMI can be used as a solvent and premix carrier. It changes the solvent environment and can materially affect sensory feel, viscosity and preservation. Include its full percentage in the formula calculation.
Glycerin
Glycerin complements Sepiwhite MSH by providing a water-phase humectant function, but it does not dissolve the oil-soluble powder. Keep their phase roles separate and evaluate tack versus after-feel.
Hyaluronic acid and other water-phase polymers
These may be used in the aqueous phase if compatible with the emulsifier, pH and active system. Polymer viscosity can change after adding DMI, salts, niacinamide or other dissolved materials, so test the final system rather than the base alone.
Oil-phase emollients
Caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate, Isosorbide Dicaprylate, squalane, hemisqualane and selected plant oils can be screened as part of the oil or carrier system. Solubility must be confirmed for the actual Sepiwhite level and oil blend.
Troubleshooting Sepiwhite MSH formulations
| Observation | Possible causes | Development response |
|---|---|---|
| Powder remains visible | Insufficient wetting, inadequate carrier, low temperature or too much active for the carrier | Improve the carrier screen, add gradually and use controlled gentle heat |
| Active dissolves hot but crystallises cold | Supersaturation or inadequate low-temperature solubility | Reduce active level, increase carrier, change solvent blend or use a different incorporation route |
| White sediment appears after one day | Re-precipitation, pH shift or incomplete dispersion | Check the cooled sample, final pH and the solvent/premix system |
| Oil phase looks clear but the emulsion becomes grainy | Active precipitates during emulsification or cooling | Inspect the oil phase at each temperature and evaluate a lower active level |
| Emulsion separates | Emulsifier/process problem, incompatible oil load or active affecting the interface | Compare a control without Sepiwhite and review the emulsion process |
| Formula becomes too thin | DMI or solvent level changed polymer viscosity; pH or electrolyte effect | Check a control, re-optimise the polymer and measure pH after equilibration |
| Formula becomes tacky | High DMI, glycerin or other solvent/humectant level | Reduce the contributing material or rebalance with lighter emollients |
| Colour changes over time | Active, oil or botanical oxidation; heat or light exposure | Review raw-material quality, antioxidant strategy, packaging and storage |
| pH is outside target | Late additions, inaccurate measurement or inadequate equilibration | Calibrate the meter, measure at a defined temperature and adjust carefully |
Stability testing checklist
Do not approve a Sepiwhite MSH formula from its day-one appearance alone. At minimum, monitor:
- appearance, colour and odour at day 0;
- clarity, crystals, haze, sediment or graininess after cooling;
- pH for water-containing systems;
- viscosity, spread and after-feel;
- 24–48-hour appearance;
- one-week and longer-term room-temperature condition;
- cool-storage solubility and precipitation;
- elevated-temperature changes;
- freeze-thaw performance where relevant;
- centrifuge behaviour as an early emulsion screen;
- packaging compatibility and dispensing behaviour;
- microbiological quality and preservative efficacy for water-containing products.
Use a control formula without Sepiwhite MSH and, where relevant, a carrier-only control. This helps identify whether a change comes from the active, DMI, the oil blend, the emulsifier or the process.
Common questions about Sepiwhite MSH
What is Sepiwhite MSH?
Sepiwhite™ MSH is a trade-name cosmetic active based on Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, a lipoamino-acid ingredient used in professional tone-care and brightening-oriented formulas.
What is the INCI name?
The INCI name is Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine.
Is Sepiwhite MSH oil soluble?
It is commonly formulated through an oil or compatible solvent system. Gentle heating around 60°C may be required for dissolution. An aqueous route can also be screened around pH 7 with warming, but the complete formula must be tested for precipitation and stability.
What is the maximum use level?
The current development maximum is commonly 2%. Practical screens are often 0.5%, 1% and 2%. Do not exceed the current supplier maximum without updated grade-specific documentation.
Can Sepiwhite MSH be added directly to water?
Do not assume so. It may be handled through a pH-controlled aqueous route around pH 7 with warming, but plain water at an arbitrary pH may not dissolve it or keep it dissolved during cooling.
Can I use a Sepiwhite MSH and DMI premix?
Yes. A 20% Sepiwhite MSH / 80% DMI premix is a practical development method. To deliver 2% Sepiwhite MSH, add 10% of the premix; this also adds 8% DMI to the finished formula.
Can I combine Sepiwhite MSH with niacinamide?
Yes. This is a useful cosmetic tone-care pairing. Keep niacinamide in the water phase and introduce Sepiwhite MSH through a validated oil or solvent system. Choose the final pH for the complete formula.
Can I use Sepiwhite MSH in a cream?
Yes. Pre-dissolve or disperse it in the oil or solvent phase, then emulsify using a suitable emulsifier. Check for crystals, graininess or precipitation during cooling and storage.
Can I use it in an anhydrous serum or balm?
Yes. Anhydrous products can be useful for screening because they remove the water-phase solubility and preservation variables. A compatible ester or oil carrier and controlled heat may be required.
What pH should a Sepiwhite MSH formula have?
Technical guidance commonly indicates stability around pH 3.5–7.0 and an aqueous dissolution screen around pH 7. The final pH must suit the complete formula, especially niacinamide, preservatives, polymers and other actives.
When should Sepiwhite MSH be added?
For an oil-phase method, dissolve it in the carrier before emulsification. For a DMI premix, prepare and test the premix before addition. Add heat-sensitive materials during cool-down, commonly below 40°C when required by their technical guidance.
Is Sepiwhite MSH a preservative?
No. It is a cosmetic active and is not a broad-spectrum preservative. Any water-containing product needs an appropriate preservation strategy and microbiological assessment.
Can Sepiwhite MSH treat melasma or hyperpigmentation?
This raw material page is for cosmetic formulation. Avoid disease, treatment and therapeutic claims unless they are substantiated and legally permitted for the intended market. Use cosmetic wording such as tone-care, brightening or even-looking skin tone only where the finished-product claim is properly supported.
Storage and handling
Keep the powder tightly closed, dry and protected from contamination, light and temperature extremes. Store cool and dry, do not freeze, and follow the latest batch label and technical documents. Use clean, dry tools and avoid introducing moisture into the container.
Read the current Safety Data Sheet before handling and follow its specified protective measures. Batch number and expiry information should come from the current Certificate of Analysis or product documentation, not from an evergreen web page that may become outdated.
Professional compliance reminder
The finished-product manufacturer is responsible for raw-material verification, formula safety, claims substantiation, microbiological quality, packaging compatibility, manufacturing records and market-specific compliance. In the UK and EU, this may include appropriate GMP, a Product Information File, a Cosmetic Product Safety Report, responsible-person arrangements and product notification. This guide is formulation education and does not replace professional regulatory or safety assessment.
Buy Sepiwhite MSH
Ready to formulate with this professional cosmetic tone-care active? Visit the Sepiwhite MSH – Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine product page for pack sizes, availability and current technical documents.
The product listing links back to this Sepiwhite MSH formulation guide in Ingredients A–Z so formulators can move directly between the raw-material listing and the technical guide.
Technical documents
Before manufacture, check the current JustGlow Safety Data Sheet and batch-specific Certificate of Analysis on the product page. Confirm the current grade, batch, expiry, use level, phase, temperature and pH guidance before scaling a laboratory formula.