Building a ceramide lipid system without guessing the ratio

September 26, 2026

Part 4 of 5 · Ceramides for Formulators

The skin barrier is not made from ceramides alone. Ceramides work within a matrix that also contains cholesterol and free fatty acids. This is why adding several ceramide powders to a basic oil phase does not automatically recreate a skin-like barrier system. The ratios and physical organisation matter, and studies that build model membranes cannot be copied directly into a retail cream without adapting and testing the entire formula.

Layered lipid structure represented in a cream emulsion.

Why equal weights can mislead

Research often describes model lipid systems in molar ratios. A molar ratio counts molecules, while a weight ratio counts grams. Because NP, AP, EOP, cholesterol and fatty acids have different molecular weights, “equal parts by weight” is not equivalent to an equimolar lipid blend. Published work has examined NP/AP with cholesterol and stearic acid in lamellar liposomes; the improved barrier response in a porcine model depended on the lipid delivery structure, not just the list of ingredients. ^{[1] [7]}

Choose the structure before the ingredient list

For a lotion or cream, decide whether the concept is a conventional emulsion, a lamellar emulsion or a liposomal system. Use an emulsifier and process designed for that structure. A 2024 review summarises model work in which multilamellar liposomes containing NP, AP, cholesterol and stearic acid performed better than smaller non-multilamellar structures in a disrupted-skin model. This is a research result, not a claim that every home-made liposome will produce the same outcome. ^[1]

A disciplined starting programme

Start with a base control and an NP benchmark batch at 0.2% NP. That percentage has been used in a human test-cream study, but the study included CerENP, so treat it as a reference point rather than proof of standalone performance. Add one new lipid variable at a time: AP, then EOP, then cholesterol and an appropriate fatty-acid component. Use the supplier’s technical data for each grade and keep the process fixed while comparing batches. ^[5]

What to measure

Record ingredient masses, batch size, phase temperatures, mixing equipment, addition order and cooling profile. Compare appearance, grittiness, microscopy if available, viscosity, pH where relevant, packaging compatibility and storage behaviour. If you change the blend ratio, carrier and emulsifier together, you will not know which change caused the result.

What current human studies do and do not establish

A 2025 study found improved barrier outcomes from a commercial emollient containing NP, AP, EOP, phytosphingosine, cholesterol and glycerine. The ingredient percentages were not disclosed and the product used a multivesicular delivery structure. It supports a complete-formula approach, not a single exact ratio for independent formulators. ^[4]

What this means for formulators

Use molar-ratio research to understand lipid organisation, not as a ready-made consumer cream recipe. Develop and test the complete delivery system.

Explore the JustGlow range

JustGlow Ceramide NP Powder | JustGlow Ceramide AP Powder | JustGlow Ceramide EOP Powder

Reader questions

Should I combine NP, AP and EOP at equal percentages?

There is no universal evidence-based equal-weight ratio for those powders. Use the supplier data and develop a controlled series.

Does adding cholesterol automatically create a barrier-repair system?

No. The full lipid composition, phase structure, delivery system and stability all matter.

Sources

Continue the series

Formulation information is educational. Confirm the processing requirements for your exact supplier grade and validate the stability and safety of each finished formula.